Need help with resurrection of MVS

This might be asking a lot, so any amount of guidance or point in the right direction will help tremendously.

So here's the deal: Gotta 2 slot dedicated MVS cab that won't turn on. Used to turn on (hardly used it after I bought it), had a problem with the screen (vertically squished picture) but worked fine. Doesn't turn on now after long period of negligence.

Haven't touched the thing in months (after giving up on powering it up), been too busy with other things. Now the time has come to bring this baby back to life, but there's a problem - I have no experience with electronics hardware whatsoever. I have no idea where to start or what to do to get this thing running again.

What I'm humbly asking for is a little advice on what to do to figure out the problem as well as a list of any equipment/diagrams I should be prepared to have.

Thanks for your time, folks!

First check for any safety switches that may be open, usiually on the back side. If all the switches are good. try replacing the power supply. Most arcade problems are result of bad power supplies.

hmm

Well, I suppose it is a pretty old machine. Where might I find a new power supply if I need one?

This is the what your MVS power supply looks like out of the cabinet.(Thank you Briggs)
http://www.hardmvs.com/html/powerSupply.htm
Correct-Direct Plug In MVS power supply...

This is the direct 'plug in" replacement provided that your wiring hasn't been cut to put in a common type Power Supply.


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Common type As:
http://www.happcontrols.com/images/80/80006400_thumb.jpg

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What you need=
Ultimate 150 Watt Power Supply with External On/Off Cable
5V 15A, +12V 5.5A, -5V 1A

http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80007200.htm

http://www.happcontrols.com/

Ultimate 150 Watt Power Supply with External On/Off Cable
5V 15A, +12V 5.5A, -5V 1A
UL and CSA recognized
External On/Off cable with 4-pin Molex
Dual AC input 115vac/230vac, selectable by switch
Low ripple and noise, EMI filter
Overload and short circuit protection
Built in DC fan and power switch
Metal case - XT size
Dimensions 8.74"L x 5.51"W x 4.65"H
Supplied with 8' long SJT power cord
Meets AMOA standard
1 year warranty

Also check the fuses.

Also, when you say it doesn't turn on... please define that... Is it a) totally dead, b) sound but no picture, c) white screen on monitor but no sound or graphics, d) static electricity on the screen but nothing else?

That would help to determine if the problem is logic board or monitor related since you have had some monitor troubles in the past.

RJ

What he said. Can you hear the monitor degauss? Do the EL panels light?

1. Does the game board boot up, do you get the start up jingle sounds (perhaps dirty cart contacts may cause the game not to boot up, you would usually see the cross hatch test pattern in that case)

2. Is the monitor running (can you see the crt heaters glowing in the neck of the tube)

power

When I flip the power switch nothing happens at all. No whirring of motors or flickering of monitors. Thanks for the pic and links, most helpful. I'll check out the power supply tomorrow.

Have you checked any fuses on the mains input, if your lucky it may be as simple as that.

If NOTHING happens, you might be lucky (power cord, fuse, plug) as said above. It would be a pretty big coincidence for the monitor and power supply to go out at the same time.

Yes,check fuse/s..You may have one near the on-off power switch in the coin door area..
Or one on or "in" the power supply iself..

Do you see the fan moving in the power supply/back of cab.. ?


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I have two spare identical power supplies like the below/minus the External On/Off cable with 4-pin Molex.
One has a fuse on it's outerside(knob screw off) the other has a fuse in it.....(these are a pain to take apart etc..

http://www.hardmvs.com/html/powerSupply.htm

fuse

I actually checked the fuse by the power switch right away when I found the problem,a nd it looked alright. I haven't had a chance to get around back and chech a possible second fuse by the power supply. I will do that.

With fuses, if you have a meter, check the continuity to verify if it is good or bad. Sometimes they "look" ok, but in fact are not.

chris1 said:

I have two spare identical power supplies like the below/minus the External On/Off cable with 4-pin Molex.
One has a fuse on it's outerside(knob screw off) the other has a fuse in it.....(these are a pain to take apart etc..

Click to expand...

I've also seen an arcade psu like these that had NO fuse at all... I even opened up that psu, and was astonished... I'm pretty sure it was the reason a friend of mine had to buy a new 4-slot... possibly messed with his monitor as well (it has since started jitterring durring gameplay).