In Today's Episode of Pimp My Stick...

Lime2K

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Episode 2 of Pimp My Stick!!

My store got a Pelican Universal RealArcade stick in about a week ago, and I bought it today, with the full intention of modding it. I don't have pictures yet, but here's what went down:

1) Got home with it. Put SFAC in my ps2, and played with the stick as is for a while. Buttons ar ok, but the stick is the biggest piece of crap on God's green earth. Busted out my custom KOF stick and compared it, thinking I was just rusty with controller motions. I wasn't.

2) Opened it up, and checked it out. Wrote down wire colors to buttons before playing with it (so I could reassemble it easier). Removed two wire harnesses, along with the microswitches soldered onto them. Removed all buttons, and joystick. Upon closer examination, the buttons are clearly of inferior quality to the Happ buttons I usually use -- Lower quality plastic, and a smaller, less springy spring. The stick is worse than the ones that came on my Dynamo cab before I got to it (and those were craptacular, let me tell you) -- it looks like a cheap knockoff of a Happ Super.

3) Installed new Happ Concave buttons and a Happ Competition stick. The buttons in the top row are the classic Neo colors (R,Y,G,B) and the bottom row is all black (They're what I had hanging around, and I may consider giving concave buttons a chance next time I order from Happ). I added a 1P start and a white concave button for Select (they gave me the wrong one when I ordered it, but it looks cool), and left the original Mode button in ('cause I'll only use it like once a year, anyway).

4) Unsoldered the wire harness from the microswitches, stripped them, and added quick disconnects to all the wires.

-- I would like to take a quick moment to give the Good Old American Finger to whoever at Pelican decided that 24 gauge wire was plenty big for theit wiring. Fuck You, Sir or Madam, whomever you are. Thank you, that is all. --
(now back to your regularly scheduled post)

4) (continued) I used a few scraps of wire I had laying around to daisy-chain the grounds, because I didn't feel like trying to strip three-inch lengths of 24 gauge wire.

5) Double checked my connections, hooked it up to my PS2 to double-check the wiring connections (whih were all right the first time, to my amazing suprise), and then closed it up and played some Soul Calibur III. This stick owns, and because it's huge as all fucking hell, I have lots of room to rest my wrists when I play with it.

There's still a couple of things I want to do to it:
First is find/make some cool artwork for it -- maybe something Guilty Gear-ish.
Second is maybe add Lexan to it (but cutting Lexan to match the curve on the front of the stick will be a bitch).
 
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Lime2K

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Buy a real arcade and spend about 30 buucks for parts from Happ yourself. It's a good way to start modding sticks, as it shows you how they work and go together. (It's better for you to do it yourself, though, cause they weigh a fair amount and would be annoying to box up and ship.
 

daybona

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Where did you get the stick from?

I haven't seen one in a store for several months.
 

Sundance

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xRealNinjuzx said:
Sounds awesome. Can't wait to see some pics!

Sounds sweet indeed. I too, look forward to some spiff pix.
:cool: I've been thinkn about doin the same but 1st i need to locate the stick. I was siked about the X-arcade stick for the compatibility to Xbox, PS2 and GC. I'll have to make it a spring project at the rate i'm goin' though.
 

Lime2K

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daybona said:
Where did you get the stick from?

I haven't seen one in a store for several months.

My GameStop store. It's not on the GS website, though (I just checked) so I dunno what other stores might have one. Try Pelican's website, maybe?
 

Lashujin

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I lifted one of these out of a Gamestop dumpster (the stick was broken) and fixed it with Happ parts.

I'm trying to sell it if anyone is interested.
 

Ralfakick

J. Max's Chauffeur,
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My PS2 connections got blown out somehow on both my sticks. I believe it was mentioned to me that running the sticks on your xbox with the rumble feature on does that. :crying:

It's still great for mame, snk/capcom titles on the box.
 
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taitai

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Lime2K said:
4) Unsoldered the wire harness from the microswitches, stripped them, and added quick disconnects to all the wires.

-- I would like to take a quick moment to give the Good Old American Finger to whoever at Pelican decided that 24 gauge wire was plenty big for theit wiring. Fuck You, Sir or Madam, whomever you are. Thank you, that is all. --
(now back to your regularly scheduled post)

I'd bitch out whoever decided to solder the whole thing together.
 

Lime2K

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taitai said:
I'd bitch out whoever decided to solder the whole thing together.
It was really sloppy soldering, too - hugeass blobs of solder on the terminals.
(and it came with crap microswitches anyway, so I'm much happier with the Cherry ones Happ uses installed now - and if I decide to go with convex buttons, I can just pop the swithces off and swap the button -- no more work!)

But unsoldering is easy. Stripping 24 gauge wire, that is the hard part.
Why would anyone use 24 gauge wire on purpose? That's just asking for a wire to break in the future!

And what the hell were they thinking making the top of the stick 1/2" thick? I want to replace the stuff around the sides of the top with actual T-molding, but I don't have T-molding in that size (5/8 inch or 3/4 inch is what the rest of the universe uses)

Again, sir or madam who engineered this stick, Fuck You. With a 2x4. With splinters. And a rusty nail sticking out of it. And no lube. And you can't even have a barrel to lean over while it is done to you.

(I'm full of hate today. Can you tell? At least it's not directed toward another forum member ^_^ (as far as I know, anyway...))
 

NeoTheranthrope

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Lashujin said:
I lifted one of these out of a Gamestop dumpster (the stick was broken) and fixed it with Happ parts.

I'm trying to sell it if anyone is interested.
PM forum user Dash no Chris, he's looking to buy one and if he isn't I'll be willing to buy it off of you instead.

Lime2K said:
4) Unsoldered the wire harness from the microswitches, stripped them, and added quick disconnects to all the wires.

-- I would like to take a quick moment to give the Good Old American Finger to whoever at Pelican decided that 24 gauge wire was plenty big for theit wiring. Fuck You, Sir or Madam, whomever you are. Thank you, that is all. --
(now back to your regularly scheduled post)

Thirded on that 24 gage braided core wiring shit. If they had used solid core I would have been done in 2/3 of the time.

I know about trying to keep overhead low but 22 (or 20 or 18) gage isn't that much more expensive and it's a hell of a lot easier to work with, I just don't get it sometimes.

Oh yeah, bastard, come to one of our sunday get-togethers. I want to get a look at your stick and compare notes. I'll bring my pelican and I'll ask Dash no Chris to bring his (which I modded for him).

I also want to try to make the lexican top too but I want to find out how to cut the reverse "gut curve" at the bottom, got any hints?.
 
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Lime2K

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NeoTheranthrope said:
Oh yeah, bastard, come to one of our sunday get-togethers. I want to get a look at your stick and compare notes. I'll bring my pelican and I'll ask Dash no Chris to bring his (which I modded for him).

Umm... We start having funky hours at work this week through christmas -- so the sunday thing usually doesn't work out (plus, when we don't have funky hours, sunday after work is the usual GameStop employee crew get-together).

NeoTheranthrope said:
I also want to try to make the lexican top too but I want to find out how to cut the reverse "gut curve" at the bottom, got any hints?.

I haven't figured that part out yet, either. Router table with an angled bit, maybe? (i really need one of those...) It's gonna be a bitch and a half and three-quarters to do.
I want to work on it some more, but my budget is gone until payday, so it'll have to wait.

BTW, does anyone in the Vegas area know somewhere local that I can get a custom CPO overlay printed? If it's the right material, I shouldnt have to use Lexan on top of the stick. Any suggestions?
 

Lime2K

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Hey all -- my store got another one of the Real Arcade sticks in. It's 30 bucks. Anyone interested?

EDIT: that's not including tax or shipping, BTW -- but if you live in Vegas go buy it now!
 
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taitai

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I picked up one for Domino-chan the other day. I think between us Vegasitesl, we all have some form of modable arcade stick.
 

Lime2K

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Hey all -- I got teh parts for episode 2 of Pimp My Stick(TM). And this time I'll have pictures for y'all! (but the Stick Pimping will not happen until after work today)

Until then, here's a preview of the art I'm gonna use:

dizzysample.jpg


Keep in mind that a good chunk of the sides and bottom will be trimmed to fit teh stick (it's better to be bigger than smaller!)

C+C welcome.
 

NeoTheranthrope

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taitai said:
I picked up one for Domino-chan the other day. I think between us Vegasitesl, we all have some form of modable arcade stick.
Yeah but it's mostly pellicans, which I remember someone on another stick-modding messaging board called: "the Playskool my-first-(moddable)-arcade-stick"

I did a little digging on the avaliable of the Pelicans (or lack there of). There seems to been a very quiet recall due to the PStwo rumble burnout hardware bug. It wasn't Interact's fault, because it was Sony who made the change (it still works fine on regular old-style PS2's) but Interact pulled them from the shelves anyway in order to avoid a potential class-action lawsuit.

Lime2K said:
Hey all -- I got teh parts for episode 2 of Pimp My Stick(TM). And this time I'll have pictures for y'all! (but the Stick Pimping will not happen until after work today)

Until then, here's a preview of the art I'm gonna use:

dizzysample.jpg


Keep in mind that a good chunk of the sides and bottom will be trimmed to fit teh stick (it's better to be bigger than smaller!)

C+C welcome.
Is it loli? You gotta remeber that she's only three.

uh, holding my pelican up to the screen and imagining how the overlay would look, I notice that... you'll have to very careful about the placement of the joystick ...in relation to the Dizzy on the left... otherwise you'll end up with dickchickery of epic proportions.
 

Lime2K

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It goes through the angel wing on the right, actually. I just did a test-fit to make sure of the layout of the stuff (I needed to tweak the control legend up a smidge, for example)

I had to make sure it looked good before I go spend cash money at Kinkos for the final version.

On an only-slightly-unrelated note, Why doesn't Kinkos have price lists on their website? Even estimates would be nice...

Yeah but it's mostly pellicans, which I remember someone on another stick-modding messaging board called: "the Playskool my-first-(moddable)-arcade-stick"

I've built a couple sticks and two cabinets from scratch (ok, well the second one isn't quite finished yet). I wanted something easy to do for a change, and it's actually cheaper to buy a pelican and mod it than build the shell yourself.
 

Dash no Chris

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Lime2K said:
Hey all -- my store got another one of the Real Arcade sticks in. It's 30 bucks. Anyone interested?
Picked it up during my lunchbreak today -- that's for the heads-up, Lime2K! When I picked up my first Pelican Universal about 8 or 9 months ago, all the Gamestop's were charging $50 for them -- is $30 now the going rate when they do manage to pop up? Just took a quick glance at it and realized that it doesn't have the little snap-flap covered cable-hideyhole on the back like my old one -- the cord ends up just kind of hanging there. Did Pelican stop making them with "storable" cables? I'm curious to see how the internals with compare against my old Pelican and NeoTheranthrope's (which had insides which were markedly different than mine). Thanks again!

--Chris
 

NeoTheranthrope

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Dash no Chris said:
Picked it up during my lunchbreak today -- that's for the heads-up, Lime2K! When I picked up my first Pelican Universal about 8 or 9 months ago, all the Gamestop's were charging $50 for them -- is $30 now the going rate when they do manage to pop up? Just took a quick glance at it and realized that it doesn't have the little snap-flap covered cable-hideyhole on the back like my old one -- the cord ends up just kind of hanging there. Did Pelican stop making them with "storable" cables? I'm curious to see how the internals with compare against my old Pelican and NeoTheranthrope's (which had insides which were markedly different than mine). Thanks again!

--Chris
I saw one up at a Gamestop the other night when I was Christmas shopping. These are, apparently, a new version. The're physically smaller (20~30% by my estimate), lighter, cheaper and probably (I haven't had a chance to comfim this yet) PStwo compliant.

I want to pick one up to see if it's guts are different.
 

NeoTheranthrope

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Dash no Chris brought his new version 2 pelican to this Sunday's meet-up and I had a chance to partially-dissect it.

After opening it up it's obvious that the version 2 will be a hell of a lot easier to mod. Pelican went to work and fixed a lot of the gripes I had with the original: there's more clearance between the nuts securing the joystick and the case, the overall internal layout is cleaner, the solder joints look clean and professional (an unusal and welcome improvement in a third-party stick), the stock switches are of better quality (not that it matters...), increased wire gauge from 26 to a much easier to work with 20 and they used what looks like (thank the maker!) solid core instead of braided (yay! no more spending 4 or more hours tinning wires!).
 
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Murray

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I just got my hands on one of these and I have a couple of questions that haven't been answered in this thread yet.

1. Is there an easy way to tell if the stick is the new or old one?
2. If I wire it up to be used with my Supergun, can I expect the PS2, etc. functions to still work?
 

taitai

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edit -

LIME2K IS THE FUCKING MAN

I just deleted an entry in here that would've said, "There's none of these fuckers in town." Then I looked within 25 miles. Guess what?

I've got one on hold now
:buttrock:
 
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NeoTheranthrope

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Murray said:
I just got my hands on one of these and I have a couple of questions that haven't been answered in this thread yet.

1. Is there an easy way to tell if the stick is the new or old one?
There's one of three ways:
#1 Measure the stick at it's widest point, the version 1 is 18inches wide while the version 2 is ~14inches wide.
#2 You can look at the UPC (assuming you still have the packaging) and it says "Arcade Universal model##### Version 2"
#3 The version 1 has a little plastic compartment that is used to store the cable, which is absent on the version 2.


Murray said:
2. If I wire it up to be used with my Supergun, can I expect the PS2, etc. functions to still work?
The number one answer on our servey says: "it depends"

In other words: I don't know the method you intend to use in order to wire it up, so I cant give an concrete "yes" or "no."


taitai said:
1129772363200.jpg
 
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taitai

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NeoTheranthrope said:
There's one of three ways:
#1 Measure the stick at it's widest point, the version 1 is 18inches wide while the version 2 is ~14inches wide.
#2 You can look at the UPC (assuming you still have the packaging) and it says "Arcade Universal model##### Version 2"
#3 The version 1 has a little plastic compartment that is used to store the cable, which is absent on the version 2.



The number one answer on our servey says: "it depends"

In other words: I don't know the method you intend to use in order to wire it up, so I cant give an concrete "yes" or "no."



1129772363200.jpg


1130358684514.jpg


@_(*#!_*(#_(!*@#(_*!#@_(*!@#*(_

IT WON'T WORK ON MY PS2.

GAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH
 
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