how can I fix a jamma connector on a 6slot mvs motherboard?

zhulien

zhulien

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I just checked the pins on my 6slot mvs after it became a bit unstable (again), seems the 4th pin (5v) has half missing which would explain it and the 12v are a bit charred. Possibly these are due to me rasing the voltage to 5.1 and 12.9 (approx) to boot (otherwise it wouldn't boot).

how can I fix a jamma connector on a 6slot mvs motherboard? I have since got a new PSU (which is good) and I am hoping that fixing the jamma connector will make the connections better, more stable and possibly even let me lower the voltage a little. note: it is actually working as it is, not 100% though. Nothing worst than rebooting in the middle of a game.

thanks in advance for any advice.
 
MKL

MKL

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ttooddddyy should have a few tips on how to fix this. I think he soldered some copper braid on the jamma power fingers so that the contact surface between the fingers and the pins on the connector was bigger. He even posted pics...

Another thing that I advise to do is to use the auxiliary 5v connection between the bottom and the top board. It's a 2-pin connector on the same side as the controller ports. If the connecting harness is missing I can tell you where to find the correct parts to make one.
 
zhulien

zhulien

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MKL said:
ttooddddyy should have a few tips on how to fix this. I think he soldered some copper braid on the jamma power fingers so that the contact surface between the fingers and the pins on the connector was bigger. He even posted pics...

Another thing that I advise to do is to use the auxiliary 5v connection between the bottom and the top board. It's a 2-pin connector on the same side as the controller ports. If the connecting harness is missing I can tell you where to find the correct parts to make one.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by between the bottom and the top of the board? [in the middle?]

Is the 2pin connector labelled? What is the connecting harness? I am guessing you don't mean the Jamma connector?
 
ttooddddyy

ttooddddyy

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sammiccam084.jpg


This seems to be common on the six slots (both my MVH6 boards had this problem) due to the relatively high current draw on these boards.

My fix is to fold over and solder some solder wick around the toasted/damaged edge connect track.
 
AcidPope

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If you don't want do do something drastic, like soldering a braid on the board. There are pens called CircuitWriter pens that you can buy at RadioShack that will fix traces. The liquid is like solder, and it can repair traces good from what I hear. It's a bit pricey, but probably worth it. If I ever have to repair a trace myself i'll let you guys know how it turns out. Here's a link: circuitwriter pen
 
ttooddddyy

ttooddddyy

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AcidPope said:
If you don't want do do something drastic, like soldering a braid on the board. There are pens called CircuitWriter pens that you can buy at RadioShack that will fix traces. The liquid is like solder, and it can repair traces good from what I hear. It's a bit pricey, but probably worth it. If I ever have to repair a trace myself i'll let you guys know how it turns out. Here's a link: circuitwriter pen
Click to expand...

A good suggestion, Im not sure how effective conductive paint is with higher current applications (the tracks got toasted as a result of heat resulting from a relatively high current flow/resistance between edge connect and board) I wonder how the paint would adhere to the carbonised pcb.

Ive used the stuff, its good for fixing open circuit tracks on touch pad membranes etc.
 
AcidPope

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ttooddddyy said:
A good suggestion, Im not sure how effective conductive paint is with higher current applications (the tracks got toasted as a result of heat resulting from a relatively high current flow/resistance between edge connect and board) I wonder how the paint would adhere to the carbonised pcb.

Ive used the stuff, its good for fixing open circuit tracks on touch pad membranes etc.
Click to expand...

You know what, you're right. If the original tracks got toasted from too high a current, then using the silver pen would probably fare the same, or worse. I didn't think that one through too thoroughly. Bob Robert's method seems to be the best, giving you fresh new (and swappable) connectors. Nice.

Sorry zhulien, disregard my previous post. Maybe that desoldering braid is good for something after all! :chimp:
 
stuffmonger

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AcidPope said:
Maybe that desoldering braid is good for something after all! :chimp:
Click to expand...
Desoldering braid works wonders around those crappy radioshack solder suckers :p
 
zhulien

zhulien

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won't desoldering braid be bad and possibly dangerous? Won't it wobble into the nearby tracks?
 
Lime2K

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not if it's soldered on. Just make sure it's on there tight when you solder it.
 
zhulien

zhulien

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UncaJJ said:
If it is really bad, you can also try this:

http://www.homearcade.org/BBBB/pace.html

Use a JAMMA fingerboard instead of a Pac one, but otherwise the same idea.
Click to expand...

I never actually thought of doing this, I wonder about the strength though, some jamma connectors are not that easy to plugin & remove, but it might be my best hope, one of my pins is actually missing a large chunk - I've temporarily had to resort to my 1-slot board which sucks a bit.
 
U

UncaJJ

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zhulien said:
I never actually thought of doing this, I wonder about the strength though, some jamma connectors are not that easy to plugin & remove, but it might be my best hope, one of my pins is actually missing a large chunk - I've temporarily had to resort to my 1-slot board which sucks a bit.
Click to expand...

Hmm.. I would think it would be pretty strong... From what I remember, Bob was a game tech almost as long as there have been games... And everything he does seems to be quality, at least IMHO... ;)
 
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