JayL said:
1) exact list of parts that needs to be purchased and where to buy it
2)step by step instructions with pictures of what needs to be done.
Ok, how about this. I will break it down by section:
Power
Ault SC200 PSU from Jameco - $20 (D-Lite bought a fuck ton of this, buy one from him at around $10 or so and save some money)
Power cord for PSU - $4 - This is a standard PC style power cord, so might have an extra one already.
5 pin din outlet from Jameco - $1.30 (you can also buy higher quality, nicer ones as well from places like Allied Electronics)
Power switch from Radio Shack - $4 -Now, you can use either a DPST or DPDT switch, providing it has atleast 4 contacts. I linked to this DPDT switch from Radio Shack because I have used it before and it works fine.
This is the power supply components. You are also going to want to pick up some 18 or 16 gauge wire to wire up the components on the inside of the shell. I suggest using a couple different wire colours to help you tell what is what when you are wiring things up.
Audio/Video
You have several choices here.
NeoBitz video encoder - $115 - If you have some extra money in your budget, most would agree that this is the best choice. Its also just about the only choice if you want composite, S-video AND Component video. Thats right, it also outputs component video.
R2N video encoder - $64 Outputs Composite and S-video. Excellent product at a good price.
JROK video encoder - $80ish - Oldest of the three, but still a very good product. Outputs Composite and S-video.
You are also going to probably need some panel mount video and audio jacks.
Left and Right RCA jacks for audio - $2 I will talk about wiring up audio later.
Yellow Composite video jack - $1 You might only want s-video or component, if so you can just skip this.
For S-video you can try either part number cp-2540-nd or cp-2640-nd from
Digi-Key. I am sure there are some other sources for better connectors. Many people use to take
these models from PartsExpress and mod them, but I don't much care for them. They look pretty, but thats about it.
For component video jacks you will want a red, green and a blue RCA jack. You can get these from Digi-Key as well. Parts CP-1413-ND, CP-1417-ND and CP-1416-ND. If you want to buy all the jacks at one time and have them all match, buy them all from Digikey. CP-1414-ND for a white jack and CP-1415-ND for a Yellow RCA. Choice is yours.
You will probably want some 22 gauge wire (or similiar) for wiring the jacks up. Keep all the wiring as short as you possibly can.
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Before I go any further and before anyone else mentions it, almost all the components I picked out for this summary are easily exchangable for higher quality, more expensive components. I simply picked out some common ones. Others might offer advice for better components, so keep that in mind.
First off, you will need to take apart and clean the 2 slot shell. I would suggest doing this prior to drilling it. Then go back and deburr the holes to make them smooth and clean.
The power connectors will be located on the back of the shell. You will want to measure out all this and make sure you have room around each one to correctly mount them. Some people will want the power switch on the front, most though want it around back near the input power connector. Drilling the shell will be tough if you don't have the right kind of bit. I would suggest a
UNIBIT.
Its a tappered bit that can drill from a small size all the way up through 3/4" or 7/8". This can be purchased from a place like Home Depot or Lowes. It can cut through the shell like butter plus it cuts down on needing a bunch of different bit sizes for the project.
Start by determining which side of the back of the shell with be the Audio/Video output area and which will be power. Looking from the back, I typically do left as power input and right as A/V.
Like this:
You will want to mark off and drill holes for both audio jacks, composite (if you want it), s-video and component (if your encoder choice supports it). Also do this for the 5 pin power inlet jack and the switch. Keep in mind not to drill to low on the back shell as components on the 2 slot board might get in the way of the connectors when you reassemble it. Check with the connectors you buy as to what hole size they need. I usually tape off the back of the 2 slot with white painters tape and then use a pencil/pen and a ruler and mark where they are going to be.
After the case is drilled for all your connectors, I would suggest temp mounting all the connectors and reassembling the unit to see how its going to look and ensure nothing touches the board. If it looks good, then continue.
Now, remove all the connectors and decide if you are going to finish the shell and how. Some folks primer and paint the shell, but I would suggest for an automotive durable finish to have it powder coated. Call around to some local autobody places and see if they can assist.
I will leaving the wiring explanation to someone else as I don't have much time to type this.
If you want lots of pictures of other folks SuperGuns and MVS consoles, you should visit
The SuperGun Repository.
, but I'm willing to try.
