Rusty screw in Cab
- Thread starter Mad4SNK
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doe's the screw have to come out?? if not just grinded off
what kind of screw is it ..philip's flat head, robertson??
just get a drill(metal bits) and drill a little hole(not a deep one...few mm on the head )and use a robertson on it
what kind of screw is it ..philip's flat head, robertson??
just get a drill(metal bits) and drill a little hole(not a deep one...few mm on the head )and use a robertson on it
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like racecar said, you could have drilled a small hole straight into the head, and used that special bit (I didn't know it was called a robertson), to back the screw right out. My dad uses it all the time in his shop for screws and bolts that are rusty and/or stripped.
loopyeddie
Ukyo's Doctor
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Can you unscrew it with pliers?
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I'm a aircraft machinist by trade and deal with stuck hareware all the time. The tool everyone is refering to is called an "EZ-out" extraction tool. I don't recommend using it since they are very brittle and extremely hard. If you break one in your cab, you'll have a huge problem then. Just drill the screw head off, but no more. With the panel removed, grab what is left protruding from the cabinet with vise-grips and it should turn right out.
Hey guys,
I have a screw that needs to be removed. It is a phillips and it is going through a piece of wood and then into the bottom of the cabinet.
Here is a picture...
http://www.ikaruga.co.uk/images/Valgar/PSU2.jpg (look at the wood the PSU is on)
What is the best way for me to get this sucker out? It just will not budge.
I have a screw that needs to be removed. It is a phillips and it is going through a piece of wood and then into the bottom of the cabinet.
Here is a picture...
http://www.ikaruga.co.uk/images/Valgar/PSU2.jpg (look at the wood the PSU is on)
What is the best way for me to get this sucker out? It just will not budge.
chris1
POCKETBIKE NUT,
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Valgar said:
I'd go with drilling the head off that...then grabbing it with grip pliers/pliers..
You could try to get under the head with a thin flat headed screw driver.to lift it slightly since the wood is going to be softer then metal ..then grab it with grip pliers/pliers.
I'd take off the Power Supply,everything else on that wood.take out all the other screws holding it down whereas just that screw is holding the wood down.
if you turn the wood in the direction that the screw will loosen it may loosen it enough to get it out..or enough for you to try and grab /turn with a screw driver/grip pliers/pliers.
If you make the wood hole bigger by twisting the wood just use a washer and another screw to cover up the hole.
NEgO MANIAC said:
I've never had to do this but I've drilled out many locks on cabinets before. The thing I noticed is that when you're drilling, it turns whatever you're drilling. When you drill out the head of a screw, couldn't you also possibly drill the screw in deeper if you're not careful?
3xChaos
Michael
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Vice Grips are your friend...
Use a Phillips Bit and Hammer to re-impression the Philips head. Hopefully you can get it out far enough to get the grips on there.
If you need more tourque on a handheld Screw Driver, Clip the grips onto the handle of the screwdriver in a Perpendicular fassion.
Use a Phillips Bit and Hammer to re-impression the Philips head. Hopefully you can get it out far enough to get the grips on there.
If you need more tourque on a handheld Screw Driver, Clip the grips onto the handle of the screwdriver in a Perpendicular fassion.
Last edited:
ttooddddyy
PNG FTW,
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spray the thread with WD-40 and allow to soak overnight.
then using a sidecutter, "bite' into the head and twist
then using a sidecutter, "bite' into the head and twist
Drewmantrivia
Crazed MVS Addict
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what i do if the vicegrips don't work is just take a dremmel tool and "slot" a groove on the head of the screw and just use a flathead screw driver to back it out. should work fine.
Drewman
Drewman
dogtoy
Haomaru's Blade Shiner
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NEgO MANIAC said:
When I swapped the transmission to my 300zx from auto to 5-spd transmission I broke every bolt holding the upper exhaust tube to the manifold ('86, very rusty pipes). Tried to use an ez-out, uh-uh. Broke, and made it extremely hard to drill out the bolts, which were very strong anyway being in such a hot place. Eventually I got all the bolts drilled out then I retapped the holes for a slightly bigger bolt size.
This is always an option for the arcade thing too, just drill the whole thing, then buy the tap for the next size up and tap it. Then it will fit a slightly larger screw.
cheers,
-DT
Maxwell Edison
n00b
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Would an impact driver work for these stuck screws?
TerryMathews
Mr. Big's Thug
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3xChaos said:
If that's a concern, there are special drill bits that are cut in a mirrored orientation so that they drill down when the drill is running in reverse, so that if they do 'catch', they start backing out the screw they're drilling into.