i just bought a 25" wells gardner 25k7194, i hooked up in my cab, and got nothing display in the image, just all black, i noticed that there arent any spark light inside the end of the tube, where the neckboard connected to, the neck board doesnt connect loose to the tube or anything it fit tightly..the reason i mention this is that i can see those little spark light in my working monitor..and i dont think the electric go into the monitor, usually when i turn on my working monitor, i can hear a pop sound from the monitor, this one doesnt make any sound..can someone suggest me what should i do?thx
monitor display nothing!!help
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SuperGunGuru
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You could contact the seller you got it from and see if they will replace it. The sparks you describe seeing in the neck of the tube is a sign that the heater is working. The "pop" noise you hear from a working monitor is the sound from the high voltage going into the tube. If you don't have high voltage getting to this new monitor that would explain why you don' t have neck glow. Have you had a working monitor up and running inside this cab before?
chris1 said:
just a generic cab, no artside or marquee anything, i just turn it into a mvs, and it does have a isolation transformer..
yea, i put my working monitor in the cab and it work just find..i just found out one thing is that the fuse on the monitor is blown..and since the non working monitor and my working monitor are pretty close model,non-working is 25k7194 and working is 25k7193 and they have both same fuse 250v 2A, so i replace the fuse from the working monitor to the dead one, then i turn on the monitor, gess what the fuse is blown again..now both of my monitor are not working ..SuperGunGuru said:
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SuperGunGuru
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Here's a link that might help you out.
http://homearcade.org/BBBB/csc.html
If that cap is bad it could cause your fuse to blow when you apply power. Also check out Randy Fromm's flowchart for other causes for a blown fuse. Good luck.
http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/monitors/flowcharts/K7000flo.jpg
http://homearcade.org/BBBB/csc.html
If that cap is bad it could cause your fuse to blow when you apply power. Also check out Randy Fromm's flowchart for other causes for a blown fuse. Good luck.
http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/monitors/flowcharts/K7000flo.jpg
SuperGunGuru
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It's possible it might be C36. It depends on what cap you have at C36 (they revised the monitor chassis and did away with that single 4 legged cap). That first link will tell you more about that cap. The 2nd link alo mentions that cap as well as other possible reasons why the fuse blows on power up.dansc said:
SuperGunGuru
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As long as the replacment fuse is rated as the same as the one that blew that's fine.
SuperGunGuru
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The degauss coil is that thick wire looking thing that surrounds the tube. It plugs into the chassis with a 2 pin connector.
when the cap is short, it suppose to make a sound coming from a multimeter when you measure it right? if it is, it should be shorted, because ive look at the legs traces, they both connected to each other(my c36 only has two legs)..but in the flowchart, it stated that the cap should not shorted, it supposed to be open...now i dont understand.. 
SuperGunGuru
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I don't know that you can check all types of caps with a meter. The flowchart might be talking about testing the older 4 legged cap that was used in early versions of the monitor. I know they do sell special meters that can check caps (I just missed a good deal on one this weekend 
). You have the updated version of C36 at least. Have you checked the other items on the flowchart? Were you able to find and unplug the degauss coil? The other things it says to check besides that cap I know can be checked with a meter. Testing Q11 is really easy. The only thing is it's a good idea to remove a diode from the chassis to test it. They may not test properly in circuit.
). You have the updated version of C36 at least. Have you checked the other items on the flowchart? Were you able to find and unplug the degauss coil? The other things it says to check besides that cap I know can be checked with a meter. Testing Q11 is really easy. The only thing is it's a good idea to remove a diode from the chassis to test it. They may not test properly in circuit.
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the coil and flyback seem fine, so far i got C36, D18 diode, and Q11 shorted..though i measure the Q11 still attached to the chassis, in the flowchart, it tells you to put the black lead of the multimeter to chassis ground, and the red one to the middle leg of the diode..this thing has three legs and im wondering if i remove it, what is the correct way to measure this?..
SuperGunGuru
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As far as Q11 goes, you are indeed supposed to measure it still attached to the chassis. If you're taking the reading from it just like the flowchart tells you to and your meter is telling you there's a short, that might be your problem right there.dansc said: