Best Soldering Iron?

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GnarlyDan

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Im after a new Soldering Iron as mine's just packed in! Which do you think is the Best? I was looking at a Weller?. What kind of Specs do i need to look for to use it for general Jamma/MVS etc use? Im building a Supergun so need it for that too.
Cheers, Dan
 
Yodd

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Something in the 15 to 25 watt range is sufficient.

You would probably want a small/fine tip on it, not those big chisel style tips.

Although a good soldering iron is always a smart investment, I wouldn't spend a lot unless you have plans of using it for future projects.
 
G

GnarlyDan

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broken said:
Something in the 15 to 25 watt range is sufficient.

You would probably want a small/fine tip on it, not those big chisel style tips.

Although a good soldering iron is always a smart investment, I wouldn't spend a lot unless you have plans of using it for future projects.
Click to expand...
Thanks for help. Which Brands/Makes would you recomend? Im after a good one as i will be using it quite alot for future Projects?
 
norton9478

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they all are pretty good....

I had one that I bought at a dollar store. It worked O-Kay.

Weller is supposedly a good brand...

It probably matters to you more since I hear it's hard to get Leaded SOlder in the UK...

I hate Lead Free Solder.
 
J

JMKurtz

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I use a Weller w/ controlled temp and ESD safe... I can check the model number for you but I have a feeling it would be more than you would need to spend.

Jeff
 
loopyeddie

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I always just use cheap-o's. They seem to get the job done. Oh, here's a funny thing. At my Lowes, they have a $8 weller that comes with 5 tips but single replacement tips are $7! I just use the two smaller ones and they eventually burn up and I just buy a new set!
 
RGP

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I've had the same Weller micro-point now for over 10 years, although Weller are getting harder to find with all the cheap brands around now, those maplin 1's are the worst, sometimes just 1 job & thier fucked.
 
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ttooddddyy

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Im running a Weller TC201 (not temp controlled), its 24 volts so runs of a base with transformer enclosed.

1b_1_b.JPG
 
norton9478

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Unless your going to be working with surface mount chips or really small stuff (like PSII moddin) go with a cheap $10 iron. I put my tip in a screw gun and use a file to keep it nice.

A pencil tip would not be great for jamma stuff since you need more heat to get the thicker (and older) wire to tin right.

If your working on Car Audio, use a Solder gun for the Ground and Battery connectors.
 
G

GnarlyDan

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@JMKurtz (Jeff). If you could find Model number that'd be great. Im willing to spend quite alot as im starting a Engineering Degree in September, so want something that'll last the test of time. Are Weller still in business?

Thanks for all help guys
 
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MrSporty

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Weller are a good make but seeing as you are UK based .. the cheapest and easiest option would be to pop along to maplins and grab yourself a cheapy Antex.

I think they do the CS and the XS both at 20 quid a piece. The CS is an 18W and the XS is a 25W .. for larger components the XS would be more beneficial but in not sure they do the smaller tips for that model. As a beginner many moons ago i used a CS with a half mil tip with no problems at all..
 
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GnarlyDan

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MrSporty said:
Weller are a good make but seeing as you are UK based .. the cheapest and easiest option would be to pop along to maplins and grab yourself a cheapy Antex.

I think they do the CS and the XS both at 20 quid a piece. The CS is an 18W and the XS is a 25W .. for larger components the XS would be more beneficial but in not sure they do the smaller tips for that model. As a beginner many moons ago i used a CS with a half mil tip with no problems at all..
Click to expand...
I was looking at the Maplins stuff, but i was wondering if it'd last. Did yours give you trouble free use?
 
G

GnarlyDan

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ttooddddyy said:
Im running a Weller TC201 (not temp controlled), its 24 volts so runs of a base with transformer enclosed.

1b_1_b.JPG
Click to expand...
That looks a nice unit, i like the look of the Weller stuff. Might take that route.
 
soopafamicom

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I have an Antex C15 with interchangeable tips that I have been using on a regular basis for about the last 3 years with no probs.

If and when it does die I will probably be going for a more expensive model with temp control.

As for Norton9478's claim about not being able to find lead free solder over here? Who told ya that? You can pick up 60/40(tin/lead) solder virtually anywhere no probs.

The stuff that I am using at the moment is 1mm,5 core fluxed 60/40,but you still need to be using a good quality flux when soldering.I have tried those so called flux pens and they are shite.I always use a product called fluxite which is a tin of some sticky brown crap that you can apply with a fine screwdriver to boards or just melt some with ur iron and stick in the wires that need tinning ready for soldering down.

A few other bits and pieces are a good idea before working on stuff as you need to cut wire/pins and holding fine wires is a literal pain when you apply heat to them.Heres a pic of a few bits I use regularly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/soopafamicom/2005_0713Image0009.jpg
 
G

GnarlyDan

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soopafamicom said:
I have an Antex C15 with interchangeable tips that I have been using on a regular basis for about the last 3 years with no probs.

If and when it does die I will probably be going for a more expensive model with temp control.

As for Norton9478's claim about not being able to find lead free solder over here? Who told ya that? You can pick up 60/40(tin/lead) solder virtually anywhere no probs.

The stuff that I am using at the moment is 1mm,5 core fluxed 60/40,but you still need to be using a good quality flux when soldering.I have tried those so called flux pens and they are shite.I always use a product called fluxite which is a tin of some sticky brown crap that you can apply with a fine screwdriver to boards or just melt some with ur iron and stick in the wires that need tinning ready for soldering down.

A few other bits and pieces are a good idea before working on stuff as you need to cut wire/pins and holding fine wires is a literal pain when you apply heat to them.Heres a pic of a few bits I use regularly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/soopafamicom/2005_0713Image0009.jpg
Click to expand...
Very helpful, Cheers :)
 
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JMKurtz

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Weller is still around -- a part of Cooper Tools (www.coopertools.com)

My soldering iron is a part of my soldering/desoldering system (Weller 4924), and I know you don't want to spend that type of money. If you're looking for something decent and you're thinking about Weller, the WES51 (www.jameco.com) is a decent unit.

You can probably go with any brand -- just make sure you get the features you're looking for. The main featuers I would recommend are temp control and ESD safe.

Jeff
 
G

GnarlyDan

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JMKurtz said:
Weller is still around -- a part of Cooper Tools (www.coopertools.com)

My soldering iron is a part of my soldering/desoldering system (Weller 4924), and I know you don't want to spend that type of money. If you're looking for something decent and you're thinking about Weller, the WES51 (www.jameco.com) is a decent unit.

You can probably go with any brand -- just make sure you get the features you're looking for. The main featuers I would recommend are temp control and ESD safe.

Jeff
Click to expand...
Hey Jeff,
I was looking at Metcal http://www.metcal.com/products/1.2.2.2.htm and noticed they dont use a Temp Control as such, instead they use a Heating Technology that is controlled through the Tip/Cartridge. Have you heard of this and whats your opinions on this? Have you come across this Company before and are their Products worth considering? I was considering their "SC200" Model.
Dan
 
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G

GnarlyDan

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I've just got myself a good deal on a friends Soldering Iron. Its a WELLER PS-3D. Should that be ok? Is anyone currently using one of these, or have done so in the past?
What type of Solder do you guys recommend using?
Thanks for all the help.
 
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R

Reznor007

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GnarlyDan said:
Hey Jeff,
I was looking at Metcal http://www.metcal.com/products/1.2.2.2.htm and noticed they dont use a Temp Control as such, instead they use a Heating Technology that is controlled through the Tip/Cartridge. Have you heard of this and whats your opinions on this? Have you come across this Company before and are their Products worth considering? I was considering their "SC200" Model.
Dan
Click to expand...


I used Metcal irons when I worked at Hitachi. They are REALLY nice. They heat up in about 2 seconds and keep a stable temperature. We used the MX500 though, but I'm sure their other stuff is good too.
 
omnedon

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Weller WRS 1002

With the kind advice of JMKurtz, when I made the leap to quality tools, I snagged one of those. I have both the soldering pencil, and the desoldering wand. Soldering has never been easier.

That said, $$$ alone won't help you do the hard stuff. Practice and guidance makes the hard stuff get easier. :)
 
G

GnarlyDan

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omnedon said:
Weller WRS 1002

With the kind advice of JMKurtz, when I made the leap to quality tools, I snagged one of those. I have both the soldering pencil, and the desoldering wand. Soldering has never been easier.

That said, $$$ alone won't help you do the hard stuff. Practice and guidance makes the hard stuff get easier. :)
Click to expand...
That looks like a REALLY nice set-up! I hope to get something like that in the next 12 months or so.
The Weller PS-3D i just bought, looks a nice little "Profesional" unit to start off with.
I managed to pick up 3 Never Used/On Packet WELLER SI-25D 240V, 25W, Soldering Irons, Delivered, for 8 pounds on Ebay! Ill use those to practice with.
Whats the best solder to use for my Supergun Project?
 
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NeoTheranthrope

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GnarlyDan said:
Whats the best solder to use for my Supergun Project?
Click to expand...
As seeing how you're in the UK with crazy EU envrionmental/health laws, your mileage may vary on what you can pcan get.

Bog-standard, 1mm 60/40 rosin core, which you can find anywhere, should be sufficent for the work you'll be doing but my instructor from years ago recomended 1mm 63/36 NON-rosin solid core.

Here's why: 63/36 apperantly has the best (lowest) melting point of the lead/tin solder alloy ratios (before anyone asks, I know 63% + 36% /= 100%, It's due to a rounding error).
Non-rosin core because rosin has a lower melting/boiling point than the surrounding solder. Everytime you heat up rosin core solder, the rosin boils out first, leaving a ~3mm gap of rosin-less solder inside (gap size varies, depending on diameter). Therefore, everytime you move to a new contact point, for a brief instant, you're working with an un-rosin treated surface, which is bad.

(for those who don't know: rosin acts as an "high-tempature detergent" which cleans the metal of the intended solder contact point(s), which creates a better connection. You get it in little bottles and typically apply it to your contact points with a small brush, heat it up with the iron, let it "cook" for a moment and proceed with the soldering job itself.
You have to be careful with the stuff, it's crazy-sticky, like pine-tar on steroids (I've accidentally got my fingers stuck together and/or got my fingers stuck to the wires I was tinning, on occasion) and somewhat toxic.
Using it adds another step of work and sometimes it's a pain to work with but it makes a cleaner, more professional, solder connection)
 
G

GnarlyDan

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NeoTheranthrope said:
As seeing how you're in the UK with crazy EU envrionmental/health laws, your mileage may vary on what you can pcan get.

Bog-standard, 1mm 60/40 rosin core, which you can find anywhere, should be sufficent for the work you'll be doing but my instructor from years ago recomended 1mm 63/36 NON-rosin solid core.

Here's why: 63/36 apperantly has the best (lowest) melting point of the lead/tin solder alloy ratios (before anyone asks, I know 63% + 36% /= 100%, It's due to a rounding error).
Non-rosin core because rosin has a lower melting/boiling point than the surrounding solder. Everytime you heat up rosin core solder, the rosin boils out first, leaving a ~3mm gap of rosin-less solder inside (gap size varies, depending on diameter). Therefore, everytime you move to a new contact point, for a brief instant, you're working with an un-rosin treated surface, which is bad.

(for those who don't know: rosin acts as an "high-tempature detergent" which cleans the metal of the intended solder contact point(s), which creates a better connection. You get it in little bottles and typically apply it to your contact points with a small brush, heat it up with the iron, let it "cook" for a moment and proceed with the soldering job itself.
You have to be careful with the stuff, it's crazy-sticky, like pine-tar on steroids (I've accidentally got my fingers stuck together and/or got my fingers stuck to the wires I was tinning, on occasion) and somewhat toxic.
Using it adds another step of work and sometimes it's a pain to work with but it makes a cleaner, more professional, solder connection)
Click to expand...
Interesting, might give the 63/36 a shot. :buttrock:
 
3

3xChaos

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I don't know how much soldering you do, but I really like the butane soldering irons. They heat up instantly so you don't have to guess if it's hot or not. They are also small enough to fit into your tool box and they don't have a cord dangling from the other end. I bought a Weller one but I can't seem to find the same model anymore. Here is one to give you an idea what it looks like.

http://www.halted.com/commerce/catalog/product.jsp?product_id=14693&czuid=1124728011484

BTW, stay away from the "cold soldering irons". Those don't work too well.

3xChaos
Michael
 
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