Puzzle Bobble MVS Boot question

bulletnyourass

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I need to know if this is a boot. I dont have pics as for some reason, I have not seen my digi-cam since E3.

Here are the chips that are in it.

Prog Board

V3 - Empty
V2 - MX Chip
V1 - MX Chip
SP2 - Empty
P1 - Empty
EP2 - Empty
EP1 - Eprom

Underside of board has a blue wire that is soldered from the V1 MX Processor Chip to somewhere near the chip marked LS139.

CHA Board
M1- Eprom
S1 - Eprom
C1 - Toshiba
C3 - MX Chip
C5 - Toshiba
C7 - Empty
C2 - Toshiba
C4 - MX Chip
C6 - Toshiba
C8 - Empty

Sorry for not havin pics. This game has legit SNK boards and I need to be sure that it's legit before I sell this to an interested party. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Phillip
 
Last edited:

bulletnyourass

noble trader
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Thank you guys. I'm glad I didnt sell this to anyone. Otherwise, I would've looked like an ass.

Phillip
 

Robert

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My question every time I read this kind of thread is: Where are the legit Puzzle Bobble carts??
 

ttooddddyy

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Robert said:
My question every time I read this kind of thread is: Where are the legit Puzzle Bobble carts??

my thoughts exactly, there seem to be more dodgy puzzle bobbs around than any other cart. Fortunately my copy is legit.
 

Konig

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I think mine is probably a fake too, it has the re-printed Puzzle Bobble label, but its actually "Bust A Move" when you play it?

I don't care about that game being fake much though, I only bought it for the girls who come over during parties....they don't dig the fighters too much usually.
 

lithy

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Konig said:
I think mine is probably a fake too, it has the re-printed Puzzle Bobble label, but its actually "Bust A Move" when you play it?

I don't care about that game being fake much though, I only bought it for the girls who come over during parties....they don't dig the fighters too much usually.

Gonna have to open it to find out, it plays as Bust a Move because you have a US bios.

As for the guy above this post that one is how all legit PBs I've seen look :(
 

MKL

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lithy said:
As for the guy above this post that one is how all legit PBs I've seen look :(

And what's the problem with those? I wish SNK had used eproms for every rom chip in every cart they produced. Capcom was much better in this respect, in several cases they released all eprom CPS boards. :buttrock:
 

dogtoy

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MKL said:
And what's the problem with those? I wish SNK had used eproms for every rom chip in every cart they produced. Capcom was much better in this respect, in several cases they released all eprom CPS boards. :buttrock:

Why would you wish this? what would be the benefit?

IF you have an original mask rom from a cart go bad, you can always replace it with a PROM or an EPROM and the downloaded rom set. I know this works, bc i did it once when a chip on my FFS cart was crushed.

Windowed EPROM chips DO cause a slight (OK very slight) chance of partial erasure from exposure to ordinary levels of UV light from sources like sunlight. Longterm sun exposure may only erase 1 bit, but that could be enough to garble a lot of data. Why would you purposefully choose the (minimal) chance of data loss over good old sturdy non-erasable mask roms?

cheers,
-DT
 

Bishamon

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dogtoy said:
Why would you wish this? what would be the benefit?

Windowed EPROM chips DO cause a slight (OK very slight) chance of partial erasure from exposure to ordinary levels of UV light from sources like sunlight. Longterm sun exposure may only erase 1 bit, but that could be enough to garble a lot of data. Why would you purposefully choose the (minimal) chance of data loss over good old sturdy non-erasable mask roms?

I can't figure this, either; 'Bit rot', as it is called, is much more likely with EPROMS than with mask ROMs. At least, that appears to be the case from everything I've read.

Give me 100% mask ROMs anyday.
 

MKL

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If bit rot occurs on a Neo Geo board you have to desolder the bad chip and throw it away, buy a new eprom with socket (they aren't free and check the price of say a 27c322...) and burn it.
If bit rot occurs on a Capcom all-eprom* board you can simply extract the corrupted eprom from its socket (Capcom socketed all rom chips) erase it completely and reburn it. No extra cost. That's the benefit.

*it goes without saying that Capcom put anti-erasure labels on the eprom windows.
 

Bishamon

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MKL said:
If bit rot occurs on a Neo Geo board you have to desolder the bad chip and throw it away, buy a new eprom with socket (they aren't free and check the price of say a 27c322...) and burn it.
If bit rot occurs on a Capcom all-eprom* board you can simply extract the corrupted eprom from its socket (Capcom socketed all rom chips) erase it completely and reburn it. No extra cost. That's the benefit.

*it goes without saying that Capcom put anti-erasure labels on the eprom windows.

You would have to de-solder the EPROM chip in order to erase and re-burn it, anyway.

With mask ROMs you don't have to worry about bit rot; At least, not in your lifetime.
 

MKL

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Bishamon said:
You would have to de-solder the EPROM chip in order to erase and re-burn it, anyway.

Only with crappy manufacturers like SNK :tickled: , have you ever seen a Capcom board?

Bishamon said:
With mask ROMs you don't have to worry about bit rot; At least, not in your lifetime.

After 20 years or so you never know. Even the mask rom datasheets report that. (I hope my life will be longer than that btw). And in any case well-protected eproms won't last any less...

I always found it funny that on this site (and ONLY on this site!) eproms are pictured as SUPREME EVIL :blow_top: :mad: :lol:
 
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socketed eproms are way more pratical than mask roms.

but mask roms add collectible value to the package. :emb:
 

Bishamon

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MKL said:
Only with crappy manufacturers like SNK :tickled: , have you ever seen a Capcom board?

Yes, I have some myself. Seibu SPI carts use socketed EPROMs as well. However, we were discussing whether or not someone would prefer EPROMs or mask ROMs on their Neo cart, which is why I mentioned de-soldering.



After 20 years or so you never know. Even the mask rom datasheets report that. (I hope my life will be longer than that btw). And in any case well-protected eproms won't last any less...

I always found it funny that on this site (and ONLY on this site!) eproms are pictured as SUPREME EVIL :blow_top: :mad: :lol:

I did a lot of research on the longevity of various chips, and the data I dug up definitely showed EPROMS having much shorter lifespans versus mask ROMs. I think it was 20+/- years versus 70+/- years, with variables such as temperature and humidity having an impact. Mind you, this was a few years ago, and there wasn't anything definitive; It was all based on accelerated aging tests, which aren't always accurate.

I'll see if I can find the information again.
 
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