SHUT UP!!! (CPS2)
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Amano Jacu
Charles Barkley
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I just disconnect the fan in my CPS2 boards, if you have it on the open and don't use it very long I think it's safe. I guess Sweden can't be very hot anyway 
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On my consolized CPS2 I replaced the fan with a new one that is more silent (the original ones are OLD now) and I wired it so that it works with 7v (using 5v as negative) instead of 12v so it's even quieter. I've also installed a switch to turn it completely off (for short gaming sessions).
Or, you could always remove the shells and use it like any other bare PCB. Then you won't need any fan and no overheating will occur.
Or, you could always remove the shells and use it like any other bare PCB. Then you won't need any fan and no overheating will occur.
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Ok, I had always wondered the same myself, sven666.
One stupid question: how could I disconnect the fan then?
@Sven666: I got the Final Fight pcb two weeks ago. Works perfectly and I'm very happy with the purchase. Just forgot to pm you
One stupid question: how could I disconnect the fan then?
@Sven666: I got the Final Fight pcb two weeks ago. Works perfectly and I'm very happy with the purchase. Just forgot to pm you
stuffmonger
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I'm planning to replace the fan with a laptop fan when I get to that part of my consolization project... I've also got a gd-rom setup... but no games for it yet, so... I don't know how loud it is... I didn't notice any fans though...
Amano Jacu
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Lovecraft0110 said:
You open the CPS2 A board (you need special Torx screwdrivers), and you'll see a couple of wires from the fan to the pcb. You disconnect those wires and that's it.
About Naomi, I did the same thing of disconnecting the fan cable, I never play for more than 1 hour anyway.
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I also disconnect the wires to turn the fan off, I have not had any problems so far and have had the unit on for hours sometimes but never days (the 'b' board has always been open though). You can also fit a resistor to the fan wire to make it spin slower, I'm not sure what resistor to use but I have seen this mentioned in these forums before but have never tried it myself.
I think the main problen is not the fan so much but more the design of the grills protecting the fan that causes the air to sound so bad.
Raz
I think the main problen is not the fan so much but more the design of the grills protecting the fan that causes the air to sound so bad.
Raz
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Ok, thanks Razoola and Amano Jacu for the info.
stuffmonger
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Couldn't you use a pot instead of a resistor so that you could actually control the speed instead of just slowing it down?Razoola said:
John_Smith
B. Jenet's Firstmate
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Hi all! What freaky timing, I'd just solved my CPS-2 decibel woes on both my CPS-2 'A' boards and popped over here to share the wealth and low and behold somebody else had already set up a thread on the subject. Anyway I replaced the fans with slightly lower current models and that helped a bit, though not enough for my liking, but the addition of a 120 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor cut into the 12v supply to the fan and that shut em right up. There’s certainly enough air flow to keep complete peace of mind, but without the noise!!! 
Oh, and I did this on the standard CPS-2 fans, not the new ones I bought.
The pot idea is a good one too, though without some sort of thermal monitoring I can't see the point in having variable speed as you'd most likely leave it turned almost off most of the time to preserve the serenity.
Oh, and I did this on the standard CPS-2 fans, not the new ones I bought.The pot idea is a good one too, though without some sort of thermal monitoring I can't see the point in having variable speed as you'd most likely leave it turned almost off most of the time to preserve the serenity.
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You guys do know why the fan is there right, this is arcade hardware designed to run 12 plus hours in a day. The a+b pcb need to be ventilated since they are both enclosed inside a cps case which itself is enclosed inside a cab. The fan is a problem to you because it being run on a supergun in a quiet environment compared to a arcade. BUT seriously who here run their cps 12 plus hours a day, just disconnect the fan. I mean the only thing on the board that can overheat is the regulator on the a board and thats attached to a heat sink which in itself should take care of that problem. Thats what I do, keep in mind I have 3 A boards that I cycle evenly through so that help more.
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Fact is these boards tend to overheat very quickly without ventilation because the plastic shell is very compact and almost unvented and the hot air doesn't move at all without the fan. If you touch the top of the motherboard after it's been on for 1 hour with the fan off it will be really hot. The fact that there is another board sitting on the motherboard doesn't help at all. Throw away the shells and you'll have neither overheating nor noise 
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mainman said:
Regulator? You mean the amplifier... the amp is just one IC. All the other ICs develop heat. You think that by powering the board with +5v alone (the amp is powered by 12v) it will remain cold? Try and think again...
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MKL said:
UH, cmos and ttl chips do generate heat I'm not ignorate but not enough even combined to warrant concern of thermal break down due to long periods of operation because they are only drawing milli amps of current. As long as they are reasonably ventilated ( meaning not neccessarily with a fan ) they will not give you much problems. Come on how many of the enclosed electronic appliances in your house have a fan for cooling, I swear at times I can almost cook a egg on my plasma TV. Its the MULTIPLE processor and anything that is strap down with a heatsink you have to worry about. Key word processor, like the one running in your computer right now that has a fan strapped to it. Those cps 1.5 boards ( punisher, etc ) is a example, the only thing being cooled why the game is completely encased is the amp with that small fan. It all depend on the design and what you can get away with, engineers tend to over compensate for worse case scenarios. But bottom line yeah I think that over a extreme extended amount of time you will damage your A board without the fan. Use the fan, don't use the fan, replace the fan. The front of the board may say capcom but its your property you decide what is best.
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Lime2K
Host for Orochi
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I replaced the fan in my A board about a month ago, and it's so much quieter now!
Got teh fan from Frys.
BTW, you can buy the security Torx screwdriver bits from Happ:
http://www.happcontrols.com/tools/49071000.htm
Tamper-Resistant Star Bit Set
For tamper-proof star fasteners
Tempered, precision-machined tips
Includes 7 bits: T-10, T-15, T-20, T-25, T-27, T-30, T-40
Complete with PVC organizer
Part Number Description Price per ea.
49-0710-00 Tamper-Resistant Star Bit Set $4.00
Got teh fan from Frys.
BTW, you can buy the security Torx screwdriver bits from Happ:
http://www.happcontrols.com/tools/49071000.htm
Tamper-Resistant Star Bit Set
For tamper-proof star fasteners
Tempered, precision-machined tips
Includes 7 bits: T-10, T-15, T-20, T-25, T-27, T-30, T-40
Complete with PVC organizer
Part Number Description Price per ea.
49-0710-00 Tamper-Resistant Star Bit Set $4.00
Amano Jacu
Charles Barkley
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Spectre said:I recommend an external PC liquid cooling system with a decent coolant like Asetek's R507. Air cooling solutions are so yesterday...
Seriously people
job done.
Come on, it is much more elegant (and reversible) to open the A board and disconnect the fan cable from the mobo, although you have to open it all (at the same time you can take profit and clean the shit out of the inside).