HELP! Supergun Summer Project

lithy

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Ok So I'm planning on building a supergun, already told a few people what I'll be using for a case but for now I'll try and keep it a secret :p Anyway I've been reading up on everything and basically understand how to wire the basics but I have a few questions anyway.

First the main use of this is going to be for a CPS2 therefore I'm going to need to make it kick harness compatible. So if I plug the kick harness end into the CPS2 where does the other end get wired to? I'd like to output the controls to the neo standard DB15. Of course the CPS2 kick is different from the CPS1 kick right as well as I don't even know how the extra buttons for something like the Atomiswave are wired. Ideally I'd like this to be as universally ready control wise so looking for ideas on how to do that. Barring that, being able to do 3 button standard JAMMA and accept CPS2 kick is fine.

I'll probably update this slowly as I go. If you have any tips of problems I might run into feel free to let me know this is my first attempt at a supergun. Thanks.
 
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Yodd

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lithy said:
First the main use of this is going to be for a CPS2 therefore I'm going to need to make it kick harness compatible. So if I plug the kick harness end into the CPS2 where does the other end get wired to? I'd like to output the controls to the neo standard DB15.

The other end of the kick harness are wired to your controllers ports.

Shouldn't be a problem keeping your controller ports wired for neo controllers, as you should be able to do this:

Controller port / Jamma side
A -> A on Jamma harness
B -> B on Jamma harness
C -> C on Jamma harness
D -> D on Jamma harness and then also to 4 or light kick on CPS2 harness
NC -> E on Jamma harness and then also to 5 or medium kick on CPS2 harness
NC 2 ->F on Jamma harness and then also to 6 or hard kick on CPS2 harness

NC are ones that are Not Connected on Neo controllers.

When using six buttons controllers (for CPS2 stuffs), you would add connect the medium and hard kick buttons to the pins on your controller interface. Basically you would just use those 2 extra unused pins for the other 2 kick buttons and duplicate button D to both the jamma D pin and then also to the light kick button.

See standard Neo controller wiring @ GameSX



I kinda rushed through this, but this gives you an idea. D-Lite or MKL can most likely give better examples/corrections.


edit: This is of course if you want to keep the controller ports 100% Neo controller compatible. If not, then feel free to wire the ports to suit your needs. But going this way allows you to still use Neo controllers for Neo MVS boards.
 
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RabbitTroop

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Kick harness is just that. It gets wired to buttons 4, 5, and 6 plus ground for players 1 and 2, the other wires on the kick harness can be ignored (sound up and down I believe, other worthless stuff). You would wire them to whatever you would use for joystick ports.
 

Dean

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GiLL said:
Controller port / Jamma side
A -> A on Jamma harness
B -> B on Jamma harness
C -> C on Jamma harness
D -> D on Jamma harness and then also to 4 or light kick on CPS2 harness
NC -> E on Jamma harness and then also to 5 or medium kick on CPS2 harness
NC 2 ->F on Jamma harness and then also to 6 or hard kick on CPS2 harness

NC are ones that are Not Connected on Neo controllers.
This is exactly what I did on a recent supergun. I'll be working on that page in my supergun walk through soon chief.
 

lithy

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Got what I was confused about here figured out with Nick on AIM, will just update this thread with any future questions. Thanks for the help :)
 

Kpj

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Sorry to spam your thread, but did you get my PM?
 

norton9478

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DO IT LIKE THIS:

Here's my pinout

1 Common
2 Kick 1
3 Button E/Coin (Switchable)
4 Button D
5 Button B
6 Right
7 Down
8 5V +
9 Kick 2
10 Kick 3
11 Start
12 Button C
13 Button A
14 Left
15 Up

Custom Joystick Layout is like this
A---B---C---D
K1-K2-K3
 

norton9478

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Use Speaker Terminals to connect ANY harness to K1, K2, K3.

Put a switch between K1 and button E

Make the select button switchable between coin and button E (for ATW)
 

lithy

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Ok just planning what's going to go where right now, is there any reason to have the red.white.yellow jacks if I have an S-Video output unless of course I end up with a TV that has no Svid in?

edit: oops, the red.white is going to be used for sound whether I use svid or composite right? ok then

Also does anyone have dimensions of the 3 video encoders? Looked on their respective websites and didn't see anything.
 
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norton9478

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I started a WIP extra button tutorial.

Once you get the Sound, video and power wired......

I would take a look at it.
 

lithy

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Ok so I've gotta start buying parts, still wondering about measurements of the different rgb converters, that'll probably one of the last things I make a decision on. so.

If someone can either A) point me in the right direction or ideally B) if you buy these in bulk and have them to spare I'll throw money your way

Need a JAMMA harness its going to be free hanging not mounted to the case, will get this from Bob Roberts unless someone has an extra

red/white/yellow panel mount rca jacks

whichever pin DIN I will need for the sc200 (Dean if you read this can I still pick one up from you?)

2 db15 male connectors

Other things I know I can pick up at radio shack, going to head there tonight and piddle around, if you think I'm missing something let me know.
 
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lithy

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Cavalry

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lithy said:
everyone is probably thinking 'god stop asking questions.'

i think it's cool that your doing this...I would get about half way and just be like *well i'm bored*

so can't wait to see it when it's done :buttrock:
 

dogtoy

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norton9478 said:
Use Speaker Terminals to connect ANY harness to K1, K2, K3.

Put a switch between K1 and button E

Make the select button switchable between coin and button E (for ATW)

If you crimp molex pins on the wires needed for the extra buttons you can easily plug in and unplug different harnesses (4-wire molex like a hard drive power connector should work perfect).

cheers,
-DT
 

lithy

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dogtoy said:
If you crimp molex pins on the wires needed for the extra buttons you can easily plug in and unplug different harnesses (4-wire molex like a hard drive power connector should work perfect).

cheers,
-DT

Currently using a 6 pin molex to attach kick harnesses.
 

lithy

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Bump if anyone can help me about this power switch I'd be forever in your debt :emb:

Gonna pick up a JAMMA harness from Bob Roberts and a JROK today, then it'll be off to search for these little odds and ends, if you have them please let me know :)

2 db15

red/white/yellow panel mount rca jacks

svideo panel mount jack

power plug panel mount jack

sc200 (dean wake up ;))
 

Yodd

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lithy said:
Bump if anyone can help me about this power switch I'd be forever in your debt :emb:

You can use a simple dpst switch. Looking at that picture I honestly can't tell what kind it is.

I will look and see if I have a spare one.


...then it'll be off to search for these little odds and ends, if you have them please let me know :)

2 db15

red/white/yellow panel mount rca jacks

svideo panel mount jack

power plug panel mount jack

sc200 (dean wake up ;))


I should have some of these things if not most all of them (minus the power supply). I am at work at the moment, but when I get home later today I will check for you and see what I have and I would be more than happy to donate to the "Help lithy get cheeeeep parts for his SuperGun project." :)
 

lithy

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GiLL said:
You can use a simple dpst switch. Looking at that picture I honestly can't tell what kind it is.

I will look and see if I have a spare one.

Yeah I know I can use a simple one but I like to make things complicated plus if I can use this it would make the whole power switch thing really easy (the case is a GameCube if anyone doesn't know yet :p) so I could just remount this switch and use the same power button that the Cube uses, but yeah I could also see about finding a nice switch that will work the same.


GiLL said:
I should have some of these things if not most all of them (minus the power supply). I am at work at the moment, but when I get home later today I will check for you and see what I have and I would be more than happy to donate to the "Help lithy get cheeeeep parts for his SuperGun project." :)

Thanks much they don't have to be donations though :) good luck at work ;)
 

Yodd

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lithy said:
(the case is a GameCube if anyone doesn't know yet :p)


lol...i was wondering what that switch was out of.
 

Dean

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Haha, yeah I realized that was a GameCube outlet and thought you're nuts. It'll be hard to use that probably. Are you looking to use the GC PSU too? Doesn't sound like it so it might be difficult to use the port you're showing.

I have the other parts on hand and can get them all to you. I have the SC200, but not from the big purchase yet so the price is only slightly better than list. I think $17.95 plus the cable plus the tax. But I've got them. Maybe it's time to get that 100 PSU purchase going. I'll call them in the morning and see if they have them in stock (they should).
 

lithy

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D-Lite said:
Haha, yeah I realized that was a GameCube outlet and thought you're nuts. It'll be hard to use that probably. Are you looking to use the GC PSU too? Doesn't sound like it so it might be difficult to use the port you're showing.

I have the other parts on hand and can get them all to you. I have the SC200, but not from the big purchase yet so the price is only slightly better than list. I think $17.95 plus the cable plus the tax. But I've got them. Maybe it's time to get that 100 PSU purchase going. I'll call them in the morning and see if they have them in stock (they should).

I don't plan on using the GameCube outlet, just the switch. It has 4 posts, all DPST switches I've seen have 4 posts, its just me seeing if I could use it I'd run the wires to the DIN somewhere else though, the GCN uses 12v at 3.6A I think it is. Plus I'd have to be way more of a techie want to try to use the GCN's power plug :p

As for the switch its a push-push type as in push once it stays down (presumedly closed) then push again it stays up and opened. And again 4 posts, I just can't tell which post is doing what exactly from the leads.

If worst comes to worst I'll just find a switch that I know will work and put it in its place :p

Edit: of course if you think it'd be possible to use both the GCN psu and the outlet then let me know ;)
 
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Dean

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Looking at that switch closer you can see that the two fat terminals on the PCB are grounded to the shielding on the switch. That switch is SPST.
 

lithy

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D-Lite said:
Looking at that switch closer you can see that the two fat terminals on the PCB are grounded to the shielding on the switch. That switch is SPST.

Ah yeah makes sense. Time to go out on a search then :) Thanks
 

dogtoy

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What voltages does the GC built-in PSU supply? If it's +5 and +12 you could probably power any 1 slot with it, then you wouldn't need an sc200 (if it's only like 3.3v and 5v probably out of luck, although you can get DC-DC convertors 3.3v to 5V and 5V to 12V? expensive.)

Were you planning on switching the 5v and 12v leads from the sc200 or placing the sc200 in the GC case and switching the AC? If switching the AC you can use an SPST switch, it will power down, but one of the ac lines will be hot. Since the circuit is not completed it WILL be powered down, it's just not the prefered way to switch AC in consumer electronics.

Cheers and good luck!
-DT
 

lithy

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dogtoy said:
What voltages does the GC built-in PSU supply? If it's +5 and +12 you could probably power any 1 slot with it, then you wouldn't need an sc200 (if it's only like 3.3v and 5v probably out of luck, although you can get DC-DC convertors 3.3v to 5V and 5V to 12V? expensive.)

Were you planning on switching the 5v and 12v leads from the sc200 or placing the sc200 in the GC case and switching the AC? If switching the AC you can use an SPST switch, it will power down, but one of the ac lines will be hot. Since the circuit is not completed it WILL be powered down, it's just not the prefered way to switch AC in consumer electronics.

Cheers and good luck!
-DT

AC Adapter DC 12V x 3.5A

That's what I see online. Makes no mention of a second voltage output.

As for the second part, you lost me ;) Will read over again later, shower time, oil change in hot FL heat=suck.

Edit: Ok figured what you meant in the second part, I guess leaving one line powered is not the safest thing so I'll just find a DPST switch that will work.
 
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