looks like a puzzle boot.... or not ?

luke2fr

n00b
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Mar 10, 2005
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Hi there !

seems like i got a puzzle bobble boot made from fatal fury 2 this time : but i'd like to be sure before asking for a refund.






thanks for your feedback.
 

luke2fr

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Mar 10, 2005
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well unfortunately i can't test it right now : got to wait until saturday afternoon.

i hope the seller will take it back without pb : last time i got boots i got all my €€€ back and sent the games to their original owner.


and thank you all for your answers.
 

ttooddddyy

PNG FTW,
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Nov 29, 2001
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8,335
boot alright, and a smart move luke2fr covering the eprom windows for the flash shot, thats a good idea. See a lot of cart board pics (with eproms fitted) taken with close up flash photography - not much chance of data erasure in a split second, but good precaution anyway, it only takes 1 bit, boot or original.
 

dogtoy

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Good point toddy, I never even thought about flashes. I did recently open all my games and put yellow electrical tape on all the EPROM windows, also on both Universe Bios chips I have burned. I figure the less light they get the less likely I to need to desolder them, erase, reburn, and solder them again.
 

luke2fr

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Boot tested

There's no sound at all !

and bad thing is that the seller (from this forum, with 15 good feedback) wrote on his sell page it was original as every other mvs he solds, and since i got the game (plus another one which at least is ok), he doesn't answer to any of the PMs and emails I sent :(

i will wait a few days more before giving his name : but i'm getting :blow_top: :mad_2: :very_ang:
 

ResO

water damaged
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If this is from a reputable seller, he probably believed that it wasn't a boot. Puzzle Bobble has to be by far the most common bootleg when it comes to the neo, and the legit carts look like bootlegs to begin with. I believe the original will always have one or two eproms, and will have both NGH numbers from Puzzle Bobble and Power Spikes 2.


Good luck.
 

luke2fr

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yup, i've tested it 3 times in a round and on two single slots, and not a single sound or noise heard.
 

chris1

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luke2fr said:
yup, i've tested it 3 times in a round and on two single slots, and not a single sound or noise heard.


Try some light sand paper on the carts connectors wiping off the residue with alcohol.

It's worth a shot but I figure one of the EPROMS is corrupt,whatever one holds the sound..(M1 chip perhaps)
Take a look at the soldering under the chips.,maybe something isn't making a a good connection..

I have Puzzle Bobble boot with No sound..It has no sound no matter what I do....It also has a load of EPROMS on it..


I hope the seller makes good on this..
 

peap

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UV-light erases eproms, not ordinary light. I'm not an expert at all but I don't think there's any UV-light in camera flashes.
 

dogtoy

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All light emits some UV light, unless it is a laser, infra-red, or very very highly flitered. I read an article that said some EPROMs will corrupt or erase in normal room lighting in about 1-4 weeks, and can erase in as little as two days of sunlight. So you do have to protect the windows from all sources of light (especially normal white/yellowish white lighting) because these lights are broad-spectrum and actually include every color from infra-red up to ultra-violet, our eyes just percieve it as white.
 

chris1

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Good to know..

dogtoy said:
All light emits some UV light, unless it is a laser, infra-red, or very very highly flitered. I read an article that said some EPROMs will corrupt or erase in normal room lighting in about 1-4 weeks, and can erase in as little as two days of sunlight. So you do have to protect the windows from all sources of light (especially normal white/yellowish white lighting) because these lights are broad-spectrum and actually include every color from infra-red up to ultra-violet, our eyes just percieve it as white.


I guess covering up Clear Cased MVS Carts with EPROM'S would be a very good idea...(though I always cover up any windowed chip when I find them in a cart
 

dogtoy

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chris1 said:
I guess covering up Clear Cased MVS Carts with EPROM'S would be a very good idea...(though I always cover up any windowed chip when I find them in a cart


I cover all window EPROMs I find, Even non-clear MVS games have slats in the sides that light could enter (I guess these are for airflow?? but i've never felt an MVS game get hot). Why take chances when the prevention is as easy as slapping on a piece of tape.
 

chris1

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dogtoy said:
I cover all window EPROMs I find, Even non-clear MVS games have slats in the sides that light could enter (I guess these are for airflow?? but i've never felt an MVS game get hot). Why take chances when the prevention is as easy as slapping on a piece of tape.

Yes..I agree(Why take chances when the prevention is as easy as slapping on a piece of tape) :buttrock:

I tape the non clear cased eproms carts too..Your right about those vents,light could get in there..
 
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