can one psu power an mvs 4 slot and an h64 ?
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J0e Musashi
Metal Slug Mechanic
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I doubt it unless you can find a sufficient PSU, which will be expensive. It's hard enough powering a H64 on its own. Maybe 2 PSU's, one for each board will be better?
J0e Musashi
Metal Slug Mechanic
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Now I'm not entirely sure about that and I've never tried it. I can make up a test rig over the weekend, but maybe somebody else will answer by then. I'll post back my findings.
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I don't know what the rating of most arcade psu's are..... But A PC psu should be able to power both....
chris1
POCKETBIKE NUT,
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IMO it would work if the voltage is being switched back and forth to each board when you are going to use either.
When you use one of those dual jamma boards your able to switch what board is in use right,thus cutting the power voltage to one of the boards.
I don't think you'll have a problem..unless the dual jamma board has some sort of voltage draw..
That might dip the 4 slot into working in properly.
If the dual jamma board..is just like a big switching device requiring no power to use then don't think you'll have a problem..
And I guess you can still have the Negative -5V going to both the Hyper And MVS too..since the -5V connection on the MVS is not used..
When you use one of those dual jamma boards your able to switch what board is in use right,thus cutting the power voltage to one of the boards.
I don't think you'll have a problem..unless the dual jamma board has some sort of voltage draw..
That might dip the 4 slot into working in properly.
If the dual jamma board..is just like a big switching device requiring no power to use then don't think you'll have a problem..
And I guess you can still have the Negative -5V going to both the Hyper And MVS too..since the -5V connection on the MVS is not used..
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chris1 said:
the dual boards have both games powered at all times and you can play one and switch over and then switch back and the game will of kept going.
yeah, not to worried about the -5v...more about the +5v because of the h64's extra draw and then getting all 4 slots to work on top of that.
I don't know enough about the voltage coming from the wall to know if splitting the "ac N" and "ac L" between two psu's would cause a problem....
what I really wanted to do was just take three wires, one from the "ac N", the "ac L", and then the earth....on the first psu and just run them to the 2nd psu...
but again, not sure if that would cause problems with anything. I know the monitor gets the ac right off the fuse power switch....and then it runs back to the psu...so I don't think the monitor would get messed up.
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NGT said:
Ohh yeah,
A four slot only draws at most 5 amps on the +5 and 1 amp on the +12
John_Smith
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I'm not familiar with the exact current requirements of the Hyper NG64 boards, but I have ran a fully laden MV-4F and a CPS-2 board off my modded arcade PSU simultaneously without issue and the specs are the same as you mentioned a few posts earlier.
+5v @ 15a
+12v @ 3a
-5v @ 1a
I've had many other PCB combinations running off it at the same time too, but I figured that these 2 would be some of the thirstiest. Good luck with that!!
+5v @ 15a
+12v @ 3a
-5v @ 1a
I've had many other PCB combinations running off it at the same time too, but I figured that these 2 would be some of the thirstiest. Good luck with that!!
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i dont think it would hurt anything in your cab for having high watt beacause wouldnt that rule apply to computers aswell?
Do you know how many wattas those PCB's usually use if u know then u could compare that psu's wattage to a PC psu and suss it out but really more watt means the PSU is more powerfull and can handle allot more so usually a 250watt psu would only have enough cables lets say about 2 or 3 cables for the HDD but a 500watt would have about 4 to 6 cables to power HDD's so more wattage more it can handle really usually higher watt PSU's are very good quality so it would be a good choice
Do you know how many wattas those PCB's usually use if u know then u could compare that psu's wattage to a PC psu and suss it out but really more watt means the PSU is more powerfull and can handle allot more so usually a 250watt psu would only have enough cables lets say about 2 or 3 cables for the HDD but a 500watt would have about 4 to 6 cables to power HDD's so more wattage more it can handle really usually higher watt PSU's are very good quality so it would be a good choice
John_Smith
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dogtoy said:
Well it's a little project I knocked together a while back. Just a way of 'pretty-ing up' a typical arcade PSU and adding some more functionality while I was at it.
Heres the link to its gallery hosted at good ol SGR!!
http://www.sgrepository.com/modules/xcgal/thumbnails.php?album=22
Cheers!
John_Smith
ttooddddyy
PNG FTW,
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NGT said:
that will work imho
Last edited:
ttooddddyy
PNG FTW,
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in the states black is live and white neutral, most of the rest of the world brown live and blue neutral.
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no no...I mean on the psu itself.....if there are no wires hooked up to it. Is AC L always the one closest to the end of the psu's row of screws? They are always right next to eachother....but how can you tell which screw is which if there are no labels for those two besides AC and AC on both.
dogtoy
Haomaru's Blade Shiner
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John_Smith said:
Looks really nice. Still a regular arcade psu inside though, right? Like a peter chou or something similar? I thought maybe the modding involved some insane boost in available amperage or wattage
I still need to post pics of my gun in a small sattellite receiver over there. I wish the SGR forums were more active, we should flood it with new posts.
-DT
ttooddddyy
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NGT said:
It makes no difference. alternating current supply to the primary of a transformer can be either way around (assuming no reference to earth). The colour code issue is only a convention/standard.