Some info on Jameco PSU

MKL

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Jameco sells two desktop power supplies with the right specs for supergun/consolization projects, the sc200 and the sw300. Both PSUs are made by the same manufacturer, Ault inc. and have the same specs: dual output 5vdc/4A, 12vdc/1A, 25w maximum power output (Jameco classifies the sc200 as 32w and the sw300 as 25w but the official datasheet shows that the sc200 is also 25w max. power output).

Anyway, I've just received a sw300 and the first thing that strikes me is the absence of any info on the DIN plug pinout, either on the label or on the instructions included. So I took the tester and checked it out myself. Using the standard DIN plug pin numbering as reference, the sw300 pinout is:

pin 1 = ground
pin 2 = earth
pin 3 = 5v
pin 4 = not used
pin 5 = 12v

This was somewhat disappointing because only 3 pins out of 5 are used whereas the sc200 (that I've never seen) appears to use all 5 pins:

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105394

I decided to open the PSU and rewire the useless earth ground as an additional logic ground wire. Also, looking at the cable I noticed that there was another unused white wire that I managed to extract from the outer sleeve and that i used as an additional 5v wire:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/jamecopsu4.jpg

It must be noted that this white wire was not connected to pin 4 as I expected, it was unconnected at both sides and I was able to use it only because I replaced the DIN plug with a different one (for reasons I won't go into).

The positive note is that the PSU has a voltage adjustment knob that can be seen in the pic above, covered with some green stuff that glued it to the surrounding components so that it couldn't be turned. Removing the glue wasn't difficult though, so now I can adjust the 5v from 4.9v to 5.6v. It's highly probable that the sc200 also has a voltage knob.
 
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Kpj

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Thanks for the info MKL!
 

norton9478

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Yeah I use the SW for MVS-only aplications.

Now that you stated that the sc200 is the same watage, I'll just switch to that for everything and save my money.

Note that the SW is slightly larger tho....
 

Dean

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One thing to note about the SW300 is that it is definitely putting out less amps, despite what the specs say. If you read the specs for both PSUs, the SW300 has lower wattage 25W vs 32W), which doesn't match the 5V/4A and 12V/1A rating. The SC200 does though. I think the SW300 is more like 3A on 5V and 0.8A on 12V. I haven't had the chance to test that though, but the SW300 has a problem running the MV-1F when using a supergun drawing power for the LED and NeoBitz board.

I have been considering doing a massive purchase of the SC200 PSUs and offering them onthe forum. The price break on the SC200 is awesome at 100 units. Only $10.77 each (regular $19.95)!!! And the biggest benefit is Jameco is 3 miles from my house so I only pay tax, no shipping charges. So figure that it would be about $12 after tax each and then $4-6 for shipping (non priority or insured, but tracked). Maybe about $17-19 each instead of the ~$28-30 each. I'd need about 25-50 to be requested first from members. If this is good for people here, I'll start a pre-order thread on it.

I have a number of the SW300 units on hand that I got for $7.97 each plus tax. If anyone is interested (they are great for consolized 1-slots), let me know.
 

MKL

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D-Lite said:
One thing to note about the SW300 is that it is definitely putting out less amps, despite what the specs say. If you read the specs for both PSUs, the SW300 has lower wattage 25W vs 32W), which doesn't match the 5V/4A and 12V/1A rating. The SC200 does though.

The sc200 (which I haven't tested btw) is also 25w and not 32w, see the manufacturer's datasheet I linked above. The maximum output wattage of a multi-output PSU is NOT the sum of of the maximum load of each reail, so in our case it's not (5 * 4) + (12 * 1) = 32, because the maximum load of each rail can't be drawn from all outputs at the same time. This applies to all multi-output PSUs. So if you have a load that draws 4A on the +5v rail and 1A on the +12v rail, a PSU rated 5v/4A, 12v/1A is not enough.
 

Dean

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MKL said:
The sc200 (which I haven't tested btw) is also 25w and not 32w, see the manufacturer's datasheet I linked above. The maximum output wattage of a multi-output PSU is NOT the sum of of the maximum load of each reail, so in our case it's not (5 * 4) + (12 * 1) = 32, because the maximum load of each rail can't be drawn from all outputs at the same time. This applies to all multi-output PSUs. So if you have a load that draws 4A on the +5v rail and 1A on the +12v rail, a PSU rated 5v/4A, 12v/1A is not enough.
Then likely the SW300 is lower amperage since I have had problems with powering systems with that but not the SC200.
 

norton9478

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I have powered a four slot, four games and a R2n encoder and a new style stick with the sw300...

I shit you not.
 

HellioN

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D-Lite said:
One thing to note about the SW300 is that it is definitely putting out less amps, despite what the specs say. If you read the specs for both PSUs, the SW300 has lower wattage 25W vs 32W), which doesn't match the 5V/4A and 12V/1A rating. The SC200 does though. I think the SW300 is more like 3A on 5V and 0.8A on 12V. I haven't had the chance to test that though, but the SW300 has a problem running the MV-1F when using a supergun drawing power for the LED and NeoBitz board.

I have been considering doing a massive purchase of the SC200 PSUs and offering them onthe forum. The price break on the SC200 is awesome at 100 units. Only $10.77 each (regular $19.95)!!! And the biggest benefit is Jameco is 3 miles from my house so I only pay tax, no shipping charges. So figure that it would be about $12 after tax each and then $4-6 for shipping (non priority or insured, but tracked). Maybe about $17-19 each instead of the ~$28-30 each. I'd need about 25-50 to be requested first from members. If this is good for people here, I'll start a pre-order thread on it.

I have a number of the SW300 units on hand that I got for $7.97 each plus tax. If anyone is interested (they are great for consolized 1-slots), let me know.

I would be interested in A group purchase of the SC200 PSU.
 

norton9478

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I have been haveing problems with the SW300

It has been giving me very dirty voltage. This has been causing riple Effects while using a JROK. WHile Using an R2N, it has given me a shitty picture...

Any Ideas on what is causing this?
 

Kpj

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norton9478 said:
I have been haveing problems with the SW300

It has been giving me very dirty voltage. This has been causing riple Effects while using a JROK. WHile Using an R2N, it has given me a shitty picture...

Any Ideas on what is causing this?

N,

Not sure. I've had no problems with the SW300. I've used in on the last three or four systems & it's ran like a champ. Is the PSU outputting the correct voltages?

Kpj
 

Dean

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I'm much more curious why the SW300 is half the price of the SC200 yet supposedly has the same current on both lines. The wattages are different as well. And it's more odd since both PSUs are made by Ault.

:spock:
 

Yodd

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FalcomAdol

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No, sadly not. I found a place to import it from the UK, but that's expensive (unless you live in the UK).
 

Yodd

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You can always use that 5/12 model AEH45UM23 and use a 7905 voltage regulator inside your Supergun to get the -5v. That's probably what I would do since it's priced under $25...which is a pretty good deal.
 

Xian Xi

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The 42watt one should suffice. In my original supergun that I still use it has a 43 watt max continuous output and I've never run into problems power-wise. And like mentioned above a 7905 will work as I used that as well.
 

butteroj

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What desktop power supply is everyone using now? I cannot find the sc200 anymore :-(
 

Yodd

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The sc200 has been disco'd for several years now. Best suitable replacement would be the one mentioned just above.
 

butteroj

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The sc200 has been disco'd for several years now. Best suitable replacement would be the one mentioned just above.

I figured as much. A quick google search turned up no us suppliers as noted above :-(
 

FalcomAdol

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Adventures in converting this PSU to work (successful tonight):

Four screws under the rubber booties, T10 torx bit required:
5toox.jpg


Has a relatively large space where you can feasibly feed through your switch (I don't know what that pot is for, I didn't mess with it, you can see a point labeled V03 here, if you got a unit with +5/+12/-5 then at the least that point will be soldered to a wire, but this entire gap might be full of stuff):
2uxxkw5.jpg


Dremeled hole for switch (bad job, also note I ripped off one of the four closure screw posts...maybe you can do it without doing that, would need to bring the hole a little more towards the center of the box):
6tloi9.jpg


DPST switch:
vrdmd0.jpg


Typical "giant blob of solder" PSU joining job (you're going to need a hell of a soldering iron to heat the existing blobs to the point you can detach the original wires):
2pr5px1.jpg


Original wires attached to switch (the blue/white wires are ground, as is the black, the red and yellow are the primary/secondary voltage lines, in this case +5 and +12 respectively (same as normal red/yellow convention in an ATX power supply):
insl5x.jpg


New wires attached to switch:
29c5hm8.jpg


New wires attached to board:
e67i3b.jpg


(Other side):
j6sju9.jpg


Switch installed, all screwed shut (note that the way I did it has a flaw, the green power light on the power supply is on when it is plugged in, not when the switch is on because I switched the outbound power lines instead of the inbound ones...maybe you are smarter than me and would do it differently, or you could disable the internal LED, and use the 5v line to do a lamp in the switch...god what a shitty dremel job)
65qtrc.jpg


Plugged into the lead that I wired up, lead is soldered to a paradise header board because I prefer not to solder to the edge connector on the MVS. (check the pins are correct voltages on the connector before wiring the system side of the DIN connector)
xqba0w.jpg


Oh, BTW it works fine.
2hp3mo4.jpg
 
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Yodd

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Nice.

Personally I would have installed a switch on the AC inlet side to completely cut power to the psu when not in use rather than on the outputs.
 

FalcomAdol

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Nice.

Personally I would have installed a switch on the AC inlet side to completely cut power to the psu when not in use rather than on the outputs.
You could also just put the damn thing on a surge protector, that would probably also work. :) Or put an in-line switch in the pigtail cord, like a lamp (joking, don't do that).

I don't know how much power it will use running if there's no drain. Some amount. Not sure if it is more or less than a plugged in microwave.

I'm no genius at this stuff. Every project is a new adventure for me. Eventually I'll get good at it.

Oh, worth noting this power supply came without a pigtail. It's the regular one that's on everything, you probably have half a dozen lying around like me.
 
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Yodd

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Looks like it would be a good choice for a SuperGun.

I will need to pick one up sometime.
 
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