Consolized 2 Slot Wiring Help

After much debate I've decided that I want to keep the wiring mess on my 2 slot MVS board to a minimum (not huge wiring harness or sound cables plugged into the headphone jack). Therefore I've decided to wire the power supply, video board (JROK), and sound directly to the board itself so that everything is neatly concealed under the metal hood. Does someone have a diagram or some pictures of a 2 slot consolization that shows exactly where to wire what on the board? I have a pretty good idea, but I don't want to make any mistakes since I'm working on the board itself.

I also plan on wiring up a Select Game button, so if anyone can point out where to wire that up, I'd appreciate it.

Tempest

do you have a multimeter with continuity test?

do you have a multimeter with continuity test?

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Yes

OK cool beans....

http://hardmvs.com/manuals/MV-2FserviceManual.pdf

Use a continutiy test to find what pins on the jamma harness correspond to the correct RGB, Sync, and power values...

+5v and ground can be taken off nearly every IC.
+12v and ground can be taken off of the 7805 voltage regulator () or one of the aux harness pins.
RGB can be taken off the resistors to the back and to right of the edge connector.
Sync can be tapped from somewheres else, usualy 1-3 inches behind the corresponding jamma pin. (depends on which 2 slot you have)

I could do that, but I was hoping for a picture or diagram from someone who has already done this. I'd rather not go through all the hard work and risk missing something, if there's a picture out there that can help me.

Tempest

Tempest said:

I could do that, but I was hoping for a picture or diagram from someone who has already done this. I'd rather not go through all the hard work and risk missing something, if there's a picture out there that can help me.

Tempest

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You really can't do any damage and it's pretty simple to do. Put one of the probes on the appropriate pin on the JAMMA edge connector. Then eyeball where the trace goes to on the board and tap the other probe to a point it seems to end up on. If it lights up the tester, than that's it.
Before I built my first systems I asked questions like this too. You just need to figure it out for yourself I think. You will learn more that way and it'll be more fulfilling. This isn't "hard work and risk" here. You can easily figure this all out since you have the tools necessary already.

Problem with easy pictures is... There are several revisions of the two slots. Some can be the same size but haver different internal tracing...

So your better off using continuity test.... Your more likely to mess up by using directions for a different board than to figure out the solder points yourself.

The only things that can mess up your board are the voltages.... Make sure you get them right.

How about the sound? How do I wire up the stereo jack directly?

Tempest

If the Headphone jack is inplace, just use a cable with a 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and two RCA jacks on the other end.

If the Headphone jack is inplace, just use a cable with a 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and two RCA jacks on the other end.

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Yeah I can do that, just makes for more ugly ass wires. That's why I wanted a peak inside that nice clean one in the other thread.

So where do I mount the video board? I don't see any free spare on the board.

Tempest

Tempest said:

Yeah I can do that, just makes for more ugly ass wires. That's why I wanted a peak inside that nice clean one in the other thread.

So where do I mount the video board? I don't see any free spare on the board.

Tempest

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Desolder the headphone connectors.... You will have a ground (check with Conitnuity test) and L and R........ You can use RCA jacks... The Middle conenctor of an RCA jack is possitvie (L/R) the outside is ground. use the sound test to get the left and right right.....

As for the encoder.... Wrap it up in electric tape and tape it to the board.. Run wires from it to external jacks..