How to fix picture problem on KOF'96 AES?

bokmeow

Ned's Ninja Academy Dropout
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Apr 11, 2002
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I'm experiencing this brief spark of static (as in a static screen when one watches a TV during hours when no programming is taking place whatsoever) during cutscene transitions in KOF'96, and there had been a few times when the sound was messed up, but was fixed after a few insertion tries. What should I do? Should I use some copper contact cleaning fluid to clean the leads, would that fix the problems I am experiencing?
 
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bokmeow

Ned's Ninja Academy Dropout
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Shoot, no one else has experienced this type of problem?
 

Ackula

Mr. Big's Thug
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Try cleaning the contacts on the cart with some precision electronics cleaner, it can be bought easily at radio shack. This is what I use and it works well. Or you could just use rubbing alcohol diluted with a little water, but I prefer the electronics cleaner...I've heard that abrasives are not good to use.
 

eclypse

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No idea other then try takin the boards out and cleaning them with some 99% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol and a few paper towels.. Ya might need to use an old tooth brush to clean all the paper towel off the pins when it gets stuck.. It will prob take an hour to do it.. Clean it smooth, cleaning up all the melted clear PCB protective around the areas where it got too hot.

If theres alot of gunk on the gold connectors, try using a simple eraser to clean them..

Then while you get it all cleaned up and lookin new, see if theres any bad broken or loose lookin solder joints on the back. Also check if the boards are flat and not bowed.. A bad bowed board wont make good contact with the board and you could have a few loose solder joints as well from that.

Do that and get back with us.

P.S. Make sure to store your games up right and not flat on there side so they wont bow.
 

bokmeow

Ned's Ninja Academy Dropout
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I cleaned the contact leads with electrode cleaner, and then problem still persists. However, I've noticed that the brief line of static doesn't happen with every cutscene change. I've noticed that it features most prominently at the beginning of each Rounds, so I'm assuming it's when the backgrounds are loaded, this white line of static shows itself. How would I open the cart if I wanted to clean it? Doesn't that mean I'll have to remove the sticker?
 

eclypse

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If your talkin only about the cart label.. You dont have to remove that.. Just unscrew the 4 screws and lift one side open far enough to get the boards out.. you dont want to just let the side fall all the way cause you'll crease the label down the middle..

if your talking about a silver side label, then yeah you'll have to cut it down the middle to get it open.

Make sure to remember the way the 2 boards go back in so you dont put them in unside down.
 

bokmeow

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eclypse said:
If your talkin only about the cart label.. You dont have to remove that.. Just unscrew the 4 screws and lift one side open far enough to get the boards out.. you dont want to just let the side fall all the way cause you'll crease the label down the middle..

if your talking about a silver side label, then yeah you'll have to cut it down the middle to get it open.

Make sure to remember the way the 2 boards go back in so you dont put them in unside down.

You're talking about an MVS cart. I'm talking about an AES cart.
 

eclypse

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Well ok.. Same thing applies. Just dont open the case all the way up and you should'nt hurt the sticker.. And no you wont have to remove that.

To open that AES case up you'll have to use your finger nail to un hinge the tabs threw the seem on the sides of the case. Theres 2 on each side of the case.. 1 near the bottom and one mid way up. I believe you only need to un hinge one side and the other should open as well.
 

bokmeow

Ned's Ninja Academy Dropout
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So you're saying, the boards should slide right out? I remember seeing a diagram of the AES innards, but does anyone have a schematic on where the tabs are exactly? I don't want to crack anything.
 
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SamuraiShodownSensei said:
I have seen many people ask how to open a homecart, the search engine will return some results but I have not seen an indepth guide. Therefore.....

SSSensei's guide to opening a homecart WITHOUT a screwdriver (doesn't work all the time)

(I will not be held responsible for any damage you apes do to your homecarts, try at your own risk)

The biggest danger by using a screwdriver to pry open the clips is they may break off, or you will wind up scratching your cart.

This is a way to open your cart without damaging the label. Again, be VERY CAREFUL. Practice on a cheap old homecart first.

neocart.jpg


There are a total of seven clips holding a homecart together. I have numbered only the ones that concern you. The seventh is located directly at the top middle of the label.

It is important to note that the clips are actually a part of side A (the top). They latch into B (the bottom).

I recommend you do this sitting down, so you can press the cart into your chest. A strong firm grip is required for this.

-Start at the bottom near the contacts. You will start with clip 1. Using your left thumb push down on side A (area above the line for clip 1, on the bottom of the cart) Using your other hand try to reach in the area near the contacts and carefully pull up and out on side B (area below line for clip 1 on the bottom of the cart) If you can successfully seprate the two sides enough the clip should pop out.

- Use the above procedure for clip 2 as well

- Note the two dashed circles in the picture, if you have successfully gotten clips 1 and 2 unlocked, look inside the cart through the contact area. You should see what looks like two cylinders. These are actually glued together. Gently pull up on A and see if you can get them to come undone, if the glue is too strong you will have to wedge a screwdriver in there and pry them apart. These cylinders keep the PCBs in place.

- As for the rest of the clips, alternate sides until you get to the top. Again, pushing A down and lifting up on B. Go from 3 to 4 to 5 to 6.

- If you manage to get all clips undone and the cylinders seperated, the top part with the label should act as a hinge. WHEN OPENING THE CART, USE ONLY THE SMALLEST ANGLE SO YOU CAN GET TO THE PCBS. Otherwise your label could crease, crack etc....

-As for the inside of the cart, you should be able to figure out how the PCBs are sitting in there. When you are done messing around and ready to close the cart. Make sure everything is aligned and carefully start pushing the clips back into place. If done correctly everything should pop back into place nicely, and your cart should look the same as it did when you started.

metallizer said:
I tought no one opened carts like me...

Anyway here are a few tips if you are trying to open a home cart in this crazy way:

Some strenght is required to open clips 1 and 2

Very old carts have very glued cylinders and weaker clips. They require some extra attention to open.

Pay some attention to clips 5 and 6 because they break off easily

When you are closing the cart make sure that the top cylinders are matching wih the botton ones before you start pushing the clips back into place.

good luck finding the solution for the static problem. I have this myself on a Pulstar conversion I did but never bothered to solve the problem since it plays fine despite of that.
 
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