Car question: Chassis/Suspension lubrication

Freelancer

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I like to change my own oil in my car because I'm able to put in a better quality oil for less money than the monkeys at Jiffy Lube charge.

However, I'm curious about those oil change places that advertise "oil and lube" service. Obviously, the lube portion refers to the lithium grease they apply to your car's suspension. But where and what EXACTLY are they applying the grease (ie: Ball joints, etc)? I can't really seem to find a straight answer for this on google, so I'm wondering if any of you can shed some light on this?
 

Chicago Cheeseburgler Crew

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Most cars now a days don't have grease fittings so its more gimmick than anything. Older trucks have zirk fittings on the ball joints and tie rod boots. Most vehciles now have sealed parts that don't require it. You have to check the owners manual and such.
 

Freelancer

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FatGuy said:
Most cars now a days don't have grease fittings so its more gimmick than anything. Older trucks have zirk fittings on the ball joints and tie rod boots. Most vehciles now have sealed parts that don't require it. You have to check the owners manual and such.

Ah, thank you.
My car is a newer model, so I believe it has the sealed parts.
I'll check.
 

Magnaflux

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%99 of cars and trucks on the road today have a sealed chassis. There are only a few exceptions with regard to heavy-duty trucks. All imports manufactured after about '85 have a sealed chassis. Some GM cars manufactured up until around '00 still have zerks, which are the fittings a grease gun injects through. Usually these are found on the lower ball joint and the outer tie-rod.

The idea of a sealed chassis is silly to me, since once the boot breaks, the joint is destined to die in an accelerated manner. Not to mention that zerk-fitted joints are cheaper and last longer than their sealed counterparts.
 
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Yes, while its true most modern cars have sealed chassis on the front end, its important to note that when these front end parts are replaced, they are normally replaced with parts that will have grease fittings. So if you've had any front end work, it doesn't hurt to check, especially on parts that typically get replaced like Tierods, and Tierod ends.

If you have rear wheel drive, be sure to check the joints on the drive shaft of course, for a zerk. And stick your finger in the rear end to check lube level, as funny as it sounds.
 

Chicago Cheeseburgler Crew

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Scorpion_ said:
Yes, while its true most modern cars have sealed chassis on the front end, its important to note that when these front end parts are replaced, they are normally replaced with parts that will have grease fittings.
I wouldnt say "normally" while some aftermarket parts have fittings most oem and or oem spec are sealed as well.
 

Magnaflux

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FatGuy said:
I wouldnt say "normally" while some aftermarket parts have fittings most oem and or oem spec are sealed as well.

Chances are, if a customer doesn't specify we replace suspension parts that are usually sealed. Most people don't care since these parts usually last 100,000 miles and the owners won't own the car then to deal with the hassle of replacement.
 

TonK

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Every replacement part I buy has a grease fitting...

Ball joints, u joints, tie rod ends, control arms.....
 

norton9478

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TonK said:
Every replacement part I buy has a grease fitting...

Ball joints, u joints, tie rod ends, control arms.....

YOu drive a truck right?

I don't think that is the case with most cars.

Freelancer:

My old man does my honda at his shop. He never messes with greese fittings or the like...

Just drain, Change the filter and refill.

I think most lube places are god damn ripp offs if you can do it yourself. And alot of the guys there... Uhh.... Well you don't need to be ASE certified to work there.

I good radiator flush is good every 30,000 miles or so. A tune up every 50-60k. Other than that, just change the oil.


What kind of vehicle do you have anyways?
 

FeelGood

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i can get my oil changed with replaced filter for $20. i used to do it myself but i would always spend like $15 for the oil and filter. i figure its worth the extra $5 not to have to do it myself. saves me the trip for supplies and the trip to dispose.
 
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