Supergun power switch question!

yuckydog

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Does anyone know if 2 separate power switches (1 for the 5V and 1 for the 12V lines) would work without causing any problems? i.e. If I install 2 toggle switches, can I turn them on 1 at a time or would I have to flip them simultaneously?

James
 

peap

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Why would you want that? I can't see any problems with it though your games won't start until both switches are on.
 

yuckydog

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Based on my love of shooters, I'm making a custom case with a military theme and want to use the aircraft toggle type switches for the power. However, they only come in SPDT variants (that I've found) and so I'd need 1 switch for each of the 5V and 12V lines. Do you think I'd have to throw the switches in any particular order? (i.e. 12V first, 5V second)

James
 
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peap

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Based on what pcb you're playing I would guess the outcome will be either the game start with only one of the lines on without sound or some other problem or the game just don't start at all.

You won't harm the pcb for not giving it both lines exactly at the same time. Why not use the switch for the whole psu and get rid of the worries? If you really want two switches just connect them so that both must be flicked to close the circuit.
 

yuckydog

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I would prefer not to have 2 switches if I can find a toggle switch that's DPST or even DPDT. And the gun in question is the BarGun by D-Lite which doesn't use an AT PSU so I'm not sure how I'd go about switching the power supply.

Here is an example of the type of toggle switch I'd like to use...

James
 

peap

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I guess you're using an atx psu?

I would buy that switch, change the actual switch to a similar OFF-(ON) type of switch and then connect the light to a 12V line from the PSU.

Btw, what's the deal with you americans and all those superguns? Buy a frickin' xbox or go for the real deal! ;)
 

Dean

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peap said:
Buy a frickin' xbox or go for the real deal! ;)

Maybe it has something to do with the difficulty in finding, price of, and size of an arcade cab?
 

pixeljunkie

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I agree with D-Lite...plus, you can build a library of TONS of arcade games, without having a warehouse to store cabinets in. Stupid comment from peap.

I too had the same problem wiring the power switch for the supergun i am slowly working on. I have little or no experience in electronics...but I couldn't figure out how to have those 2 sources on one switch??? How do you do that?
 

norton9478

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If you get a ATX psu with a remove turn on then you only need a spst switch.
 

yuckydog

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peap said:
Btw, what's the deal with you americans and all those superguns? Buy a frickin' xbox or go for the real deal! ;)

I already have an XBox but only play Halo on it when my kids aren't playing Sneakers. :) I also used to have a 4 slot cab (sold to djbomberman yeaaars ago) and sold off my US AES collection as I started getting away from gaming. Right now, the only thing in my basement is a re-manufactured Super Dodgeball cab with original art and everything. I'm wanting to build a SuperGun with a custom case (to be unique) and hook it up to a nice 60" widescreen TV for some good old shooter action.

pixeljunkie said:
I too had the same problem wiring the power switch for the supergun i am slowly working on. I have little or no experience in electronics...but I couldn't figure out how to have those 2 sources on one switch??? How do you do that?

Easiest way is to get a DPST (double pole single throw) switch which allows you to have 2 sources that you can switch on and off at the same time. D-Lite told me that a DPDT (double throw) switch would work as well and would be more readily available since you can get it at RatShack.

James
 

JMKurtz

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Get a DPDT switch...

yuckydog -- can you just replace the actual swith inside that housing with the right one?

Look at Radio Shack for a quick fix :

http://www.radioshack.com/search.asp?find=dpdt&hp=search&SRC=1

Just make sure you get one that is rated at high enough amps. You don't want to use one of the micro switches rated at 3 amps and then send 5 from the psu.

Jeff
 

yuckydog

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JMKurtz said:
Get a DPDT switch...

yuckydog -- can you just replace the actual swith inside that housing with the right one?

Look at Radio Shack for a quick fix :

http://www.radioshack.com/search.asp?find=dpdt&hp=search&SRC=1

Just make sure you get one that is rated at high enough amps. You don't want to use one of the micro switches rated at 3 amps and then send 5 from the psu.

Jeff

Woah, it's the legendary Jeff and he's a mod now? How long have I been gone? LOL.

Do you mean can I replace the toggle switch in the covered housing with a different one? I would assume so since it just fits on there with a nut to secure it. I could also just buy an empty housing and fill it with the correct switch that would work...I would imagine the diameter of the DPDT switch from Radio Shack is a standard size could fit in the cover?

James
 

yuckydog

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Did some more research and this switch has a 7/16" diameter and one of the toggle switch covers I found has an approximate 13mm hole. As long as the toggle itself (1") isn't too long for the cover, this may work out. It won't be a cool LED lit toggle switch but this ain't bad either. :)

Thanks for all the help guys!

James
 

peap

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yuckydog said:
Do you mean can I replace the toggle switch in the covered housing with a different one?
Yes, that's exactly what I meant.


yuckydog said:
It won't be a cool LED lit toggle switch but this ain't bad either.
As I tried to say before: just hook the LED up with one of the wires providing the PCB with power. Then the LED will light up when the PCB does.

I've got no problems with home consoles, I even collect some NES and SNES. The thing I don't really like the thought of is to modify a perfectly working arcade pcb into a thing that it's not supposed to be. Especially with the prices you've got overthere on cabinets and all other related stuff.

A cabinet can definately be smaller than the 60" television you're talking about :)
 
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